Fried Rice Crackers (揚げせんべい, Age Senbei)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Steamer, or a rack set inside a covered pot
• •Rolling pin
• •Parchment paper
• •Wire rack
• •Heavy pot for frying
• •Frying thermometer
• •Pastry brush

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the Dough

   Mix the jōshinko and fine salt in a heatproof bowl. Pour in the hot water a little at a time, stirring with chopsticks or a spoon until the flour gathers into damp, rough clumps. Rice flour takes water unevenly at first, so pause before adding more; you want a dough that presses together without smearing wetly across your fingers.

2. 2

   Steam the Dough

   Break the dough into several lumps, set them on parchment in a steamer, and steam over steady heat for 20 minutes. Steaming cooks the rice starch fully before the crackers are shaped, which gives the finished senbei a clean crack instead of a sandy bite.

   Use a bamboo or metal steamer. If you don't have one, set a heatproof plate on a rack inside a covered pot.
3. 3

   Knead While Warm

   Tip the steamed dough into a bowl and knead it with a sturdy spoon, then with damp hands once it is cool enough to touch, 3 to 5 minutes. This makes the dough smooth and even, so the crackers dry and fry at the same pace. If it cracks badly, knead in a teaspoon of hot water at a time.

4. 4

   Roll and Cut

   Roll the warm dough between two sheets of parchment to about 2mm thick. Cut into rounds or rough rectangles, then prick each piece once or twice with a skewer. Thin pieces dry more evenly, and the tiny holes keep large bubbles from tearing the cracker open in the oil.

5. 5

   Dry Thoroughly

   Lay the pieces on a rack in a single layer and let them dry uncovered overnight, 10 to 12 hours, turning once. They should feel firm and pale, with no cool dampness at the center. This drying is not decoration; it is what lets the cracker puff and blister instead of absorbing oil.

   For humid weather, dry them in a 200°F oven for 45 to 60 minutes, then let them cool on the rack. They should be dry, not browned.
6. 6

   Make the Tare

   Combine the soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and teaspoon of water in a small pan. Warm just until the sugar dissolves, then take it off the heat. The tare should be glossy and salty-sweet, strong enough to season the rice without soaking it.

7. 7

   Fry the Senbei

   Heat 2 inches of oil to 170°C to 175°C, or 340°F to 350°F. Fry 4 or 5 crackers at a time, turning them as they puff and blister, 45 to 75 seconds. Pull them when they are pale gold. Too cool, and they drink oil; too hot, and the outside darkens before the inside has lifted.

8. 8

   Season While Warm

   Drain the crackers on a rack, then brush lightly with the soy tare while they still glisten from the oil. For salt senbei, skip the tare and sprinkle with flaky salt at once. Seasoning while warm helps it cling in a thin layer, which is what you want: rice first, seasoning second.

9. 9

   Cool and Store

   Let the senbei cool completely on the rack before eating or storing. They crisp as they cool, so don't rush them into a tin. Any trapped warmth softens the surface you worked to make crisp.

Chef Tips

• •Use jōshinko, not mochiko. Both are rice flours, but jōshinko comes from ordinary non-glutinous rice and gives senbei their clean snap.
• •Dry one test cracker and fry it before committing the whole batch. If it stays dense, the rest need more drying time. The oil tells the truth quickly.
• •Brush with a light hand. A soaked cracker loses its crispness, and senbei should taste of rice with seasoning, not seasoning looking for a place to sit.
• •Keep finished senbei in an airtight tin with a small packet of food-safe desiccant if your kitchen is humid. Moisture is the old enemy here, very patient and very dull.

Advance Preparation

• •The shaped crackers can be dried one day ahead and kept uncovered on a rack in a dry place until frying.
• •Fried and cooled senbei keep 4 to 5 days in an airtight tin. If they soften, refresh them for a few minutes in a low oven and cool fully before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 12g)