Fresh Shell Beans with Olive Oil

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven
• •Shallow serving bowl
• •Fine-mesh strainer

Instructions

1. 1

   Shell the beans

   Sit down with your bowl of pods and begin shelling. This takes time. It is not wasted time. Run your thumb along the seam to split each pod and let the beans tumble out. Notice how they feel: firm, plump, slightly waxy. Fresh shell beans have a presence that dried beans cannot match. You should end up with about three cups of shelled beans.

   The pods should feel full and slightly moist. If they are papery and dry, the beans have passed their prime and begun to harden.
2. 2

   Cover with cold water

   Place the shelled beans in a heavy pot. Add the halved onion, smashed garlic, bay leaves, and thyme. Cover with cold water by about two inches. Do not add salt yet. Salt added too early can toughen the skins.

3. 3

   Bring to a gentle simmer

   Set the pot over medium heat and bring to a simmer. You want lazy bubbles, not a rolling boil. A boil breaks the beans apart and turns the cooking liquid cloudy. Reduce the heat until you see only occasional bubbles rising to the surface.

   If you have good olive oil, add two tablespoons to the cooking water now. It enriches the beans as they absorb liquid.
4. 4

   Cook until creamy

   Let the beans cook undisturbed for thirty to forty-five minutes, depending on their size and freshness. They are done when completely tender and creamy throughout, with no chalky center. Taste one. Then taste another. The bean should yield to your teeth without resistance, and the texture should be almost buttery.

5. 5

   Season and rest

   When the beans are tender, add a generous pinch of sea salt and turn off the heat. Let them rest in their cooking liquid for ten minutes. This allows the salt to penetrate and the beans to absorb more of their brothy liquor. They will become even creamier as they rest.

6. 6

   Dress and serve

   Remove the onion, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme. Drain the beans, but save that cooking liquid: it is liquid gold for soup or risotto. Transfer the warm beans to a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle generously with your finest olive oil. The oil should pool in the curves of the beans and shine. Add another pinch of salt, a few cracks of black pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.

   This is the moment for your best olive oil. The one you keep in the back of the cupboard. The beans will carry its flavor directly to your palate.

Chef Tips

• •Look for pods that are full, slightly moist, and vibrantly colored. Cranberry beans should have deep red speckles; flageolets should be pale green. Avoid pods that feel hollow or papery.
• •Ask your farmer when the beans were picked. Shell beans are best within a few days of harvest. The sugars begin converting to starch immediately, and freshness is everything.
• •Save the cooking liquid. It contains the essence of the beans and makes an extraordinary base for minestrone, ribollita, or a simple soup with greens.
• •If you cannot find fresh shell beans, dried beans cooked from scratch are honorable. Soak them overnight and cook low and slow. But seek out the fresh ones at least once, to understand what you have been missing.
• •Fresh shell beans are a late summer and early fall crop. If you are craving this dish in winter, use dried heirloom beans from a farm that grows them with care.

Advance Preparation

• •Beans can be shelled up to one day ahead and stored in the refrigerator, covered with a damp towel.
• •Cooked beans keep in their liquid for up to four days refrigerated. Reheat gently or bring to room temperature before dressing with oil.
• •The dish is equally good warm or at room temperature, making it ideal for dinner parties. Cook the beans in the afternoon and dress them just before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 150g)