
Chef Klaus
Berlin Currywurst
The Berlin Imbiss counter on a plate: fried sausage cut thick, a tomato curry sauce cooked until glossy, and enough fries or bread to chase every bit.
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The Frankfurt sausage lives by one quiet rule: warm it in water that no longer boils, or the sheep casing bursts and the smoke you paid for runs into the pot.
Frankfurter Würstchen belongs to Frankfurt am Main, not to a beer tent and not to every sausage stand in the country. It is a slender smoked pork sausage in a sheep casing, set down for a quick meal with potato salad, mustard, and bread. Weeknight food, yes. Careless food, no.
Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. In Frankfurt, the Würstchen stays thin, gently smoked, and pale pink inside; in Vienna the related Wiener Würstchen often runs a little broader and may mix pork and beef. Berlin will put a sausage into curry sauce and call that dinner. Fine. This one is Frankfurt's table, and the mustard does not come sweet like Bavaria's white-sausage breakfast.
The whole technique is heat control. Bring the water up, take it off the boil, then lay the sausages in and let them warm through gently. Boil them hard and the tight sheep casing splits, the fat leaks, the smoke washes out, and you've made expensive cooking water. Runter mit der Temperatur. That is the recipe.
Serve them with Kartoffelsalat, potato salad, the kind dressed sharp enough to cut the smoke. A little mustard, a roll or rye bread, and nothing from the jar except the mustard if it is a good one. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
Frankfurter Würstchen are recorded in Frankfurt am Main for centuries and were served at the city's civic and coronation feasts, where the sausage trade was tied closely to local butchers' rules. Since 1860, the name has been treated in Germany as belonging to sausages made in the Frankfurt area, while similar sausages made elsewhere are usually sold as Wiener Würstchen. The regional argument sits in the casing and meat: the Frankfurt sausage is smoked pork in sheep casing, while the Viennese relative developed outside Frankfurt and often includes both pork and beef.
Quantity
8
Quantity
2 litres
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
800g
boiled, peeled, and sliced
Quantity
1
finely diced
Quantity
200ml
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to serve
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
4 rolls or 4 slices
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Frankfurter Würstchen | 8 |
| water | 2 litres |
| salt | 1 teaspoon |
| waxy potatoesboiled, peeled, and sliced | 800g |
| small onionfinely diced | 1 |
| warm beef or vegetable stock | 200ml |
| white wine vinegar | 3 tablespoons |
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| German medium-hot mustard | 1 teaspoon, plus more to serve |
| salt and black pepper | to taste |
| crusty rolls or rye bread | 4 rolls or 4 slices |
| small pickles (optional) | to serve |
Put the warm sliced potatoes in a bowl with the onion. Whisk the warm stock with the vinegar, oil, mustard, salt, and pepper, then pour it over the potatoes while they are still warm. Warm potato drinks the dressing; cold potato lets it run to the bottom. Fold gently and let it stand while you warm the sausages.
Bring the water and salt to a boil in a wide pot, then take the pot off the heat. This is the whole discipline. The water must be hot enough to warm the sausages through, but not boiling, because hard bubbles knock and split the sheep casing.
Lay the Frankfurter Würstchen into the hot water, cover the pot, and leave them for 8 to 10 minutes. Do not boil them. Boiling pulls fat and smoke into the water, and the sausage comes out dull, swollen, and split. Runter mit der Temperatur.
Lift the Würstchen out with tongs and blot them briefly, so the mustard sticks instead of sliding off. Serve two per person with the potato salad, more medium-hot mustard, bread, and pickles. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss: taste the salad once more before it goes out, because the potatoes keep taking salt as they sit.
1 serving (about 475g)
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