Fiori di Zucca Fritti alla Romana

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 4-quart pot or deep cast-iron skillet
• •Spider skimmer or slotted spoon
• •Wire cooling rack set over a sheet pan
• •Instant-read thermometer for oil temperature

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the blossoms

   Handle the blossoms with care. They are as fragile as tissue paper. Gently open each flower and remove the pistil from the center, that pale spike that would otherwise create an unpleasant texture. Check inside for any insects that may have taken residence. Do not wash the blossoms unless absolutely necessary. If you must, dab them dry with extreme gentleness. A wet blossom will not fry properly.

   Male flowers grow on long thin stems and have no small zucchini forming at the base. They are preferred for frying because their stems make natural handles and their flavor is more delicate.
2. 2

   Stuff the blossoms

   Into each prepared blossom, slip one baton of mozzarella and one half of an anchovy fillet. The mozzarella should be about the size of your little finger. The anchovy should run alongside it. Gently twist the tips of the petals together to close the flower. Do not fuss excessively. The batter will seal everything.

3. 3

   Make the batter

   Place the flour in a bowl. Make a well in the center. Add the egg yolk and the salt. Begin stirring from the center, gradually incorporating the flour. Pour in the ice-cold sparkling water and still water, whisking until you have a batter slightly thinner than heavy cream. It should coat a spoon but drip off easily. The batter must remain cold. Some lumps are acceptable. Do not overmix. Overworking develops gluten and creates heaviness.

   The sparkling water creates lightness. Ice-cold temperature keeps the batter from absorbing too much oil. If your kitchen is warm, set the bowl over another bowl filled with ice.
4. 4

   Heat the oil

   Pour oil into a heavy pot or deep skillet to a depth of at least two inches. Heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Test by dropping a small bit of batter into the oil. It should sink briefly, then rise immediately and sizzle vigorously. If it sinks and stays down, the oil is not hot enough. If it browns instantly without rising, the oil is too hot.

5. 5

   Fry the blossoms

   Work in batches of three or four blossoms. Never crowd the pot, as this drops the oil temperature and produces greasy results. Hold each stuffed blossom by its stem, dip it into the batter, let the excess drip off for two seconds, then lower it gently into the hot oil. Fry until golden and crisp on all sides, turning once with a spider or slotted spoon. This takes two to three minutes per batch. The batter should be the color of old gold, not pale, not brown.

   Maintain your oil temperature between batches. Give the oil a minute to recover before adding the next batch. Rushing creates soggy blossoms.
6. 6

   Drain and serve immediately

   Transfer the fried blossoms to a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Do not use paper towels, which trap steam and soften the crust. Scatter flaky salt over the blossoms while they are still hot enough for the salt to adhere. Serve immediately. Within minutes, not an hour. A fried food that has sat is a fried food that has failed. Bring them to the table the moment the last batch is done, inviting your guests to begin while you finish frying.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out male blossoms, which grow on stems without a developing zucchini attached. Farmers market vendors can guide you. The female blossoms with tiny zucchini are also edible but better suited to stuffing and baking.
• •Fresh mozzarella packed in liquid creates steam when fried. Drain it thoroughly and pat it dry, then let it sit uncovered for 30 minutes before cutting. Mozzarella that has dried slightly melts more gracefully.
• •The anchovy should be high quality, packed in olive oil, not the harsh salted variety. Good anchovies taste of the sea, not of fish that has been dead too long.
• •If the batter slides off the blossoms, it is too thin. Add a tablespoon more flour. If it coats too thickly, add a splash more sparkling water. The correct consistency comes from observation, not measurement.

Advance Preparation

• •Blossoms can be cleaned and stuffed up to two hours ahead. Arrange them in a single layer on a parchment-lined sheet pan, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.
• •The batter must be made just before frying. It cannot wait. Cold and fresh is everything.
• •There is no reheating fried blossoms. They are gone in the eating or they are gone entirely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 150g)