
Chef Graziella
Anelletti al Forno
The Sunday pasta of Palermo, where tiny rings of dried pasta bake with meat ragù, sweet peas, and melting cheese until a burnished crust forms that families fight over at the table.
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The great stuffed beef roll of Palermo, braised until tender and sliced to reveal the mosaic of mortadella, eggs, and cheese hidden within. This is what Sicilian grandmothers make when the occasion demands something extraordinary.
Falsomagro means 'false lean,' and the name tells you everything about Sicilian wit. From the outside, you see a modest rolled roast. Inside hides a treasure: layers of mortadella, hard-boiled eggs, caciocavallo cheese, sometimes pine nuts and raisins for those who follow the older ways. When you slice it at the table, the mosaic surprises. This is the point. This is the theatre of Sicilian festive cooking.
The dish requires patience. You must pound the beef thin and even. You must layer the filling with care so every slice reveals the pattern. You must tie the roll securely so it holds its shape through hours of braising. You must let it rest so it slices cleanly. None of this is difficult. All of it requires attention.
Sicilians make falsomagro for Christmas, for Easter, for weddings, for any occasion that merits the effort. It is not everyday food. It is food that announces: today matters. The preparation takes time, but the dish can be made entirely ahead, sliced and reheated in its sauce. This makes it perfect for holidays when the cook should be with family, not chained to the stove.
Falsomagro belongs to the tradition of 'cucina baronale,' the aristocratic cooking of Sicily's Norman and Spanish-influenced noble houses. The dish descends from French galantine and roulade techniques that arrived with the Angevin rulers in the 13th century, adapted by Sicilian cooks who added local caciocavallo cheese and the sweet-savory notes of raisins and pine nuts that mark the island's Arab culinary heritage.
Quantity
3 pounds
butterflied into a large flat rectangle
Quantity
6 ounces
sliced thin
Quantity
4 ounces
sliced thin
Quantity
4
peeled
Quantity
4 ounces
Quantity
4 ounces
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
freshly grated
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
soaked and drained
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped fine
Quantity
1 large
beaten
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1 medium
diced
Quantity
2
diced
Quantity
1 medium
peeled and diced
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 can (28 ounces)
crushed by hand
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
2
Quantity
as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef top round or bottom roundbutterflied into a large flat rectangle | 3 pounds |
| mortadellasliced thin | 6 ounces |
| caciocavallo or provolone cheesesliced thin | 4 ounces |
| hard-boiled eggspeeled | 4 |
| ground beef | 4 ounces |
| ground pork | 4 ounces |
| fresh breadcrumbs | 1/2 cup |
| Pecorino Romanofreshly grated | 1/4 cup |
| pine nuts | 2 tablespoons |
| golden raisinssoaked and drained | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleychopped fine | 2 tablespoons |
| eggbeaten | 1 large |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 medium |
| celery stalksdiced | 2 |
| carrotpeeled and diced | 1 medium |
| dry red wine | 1 cup |
| San Marzano tomatoescrushed by hand | 1 can (28 ounces) |
| beef broth | 2 cups |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| kitchen twine | as needed |
Place the butterflied beef between two sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy pan, pound the beef to an even thickness of about half an inch. The rectangle should be roughly 12 by 16 inches. Do not create holes. Work from the center outward, and be patient. Season both sides generously with salt and pepper.
In a bowl, combine the ground beef, ground pork, breadcrumbs, Pecorino Romano, pine nuts, drained raisins, parsley, and beaten egg. Season with half a teaspoon of salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Mix thoroughly with your hands until the ingredients are evenly distributed. The mixture should hold together when pressed.
Lay the pounded beef flat with the longer side facing you. Leave a two-inch border on all sides. First, arrange the mortadella slices in a single layer over the beef. Then layer the caciocavallo slices over the mortadella. Spread the ground meat mixture evenly over the cheese. Finally, arrange the four hard-boiled eggs in a line down the center, end to end. These eggs create the beautiful pattern when sliced.
Starting from the long side nearest you, roll the beef tightly around the filling, tucking in the sides as you go to enclose the ends. The roll should be compact with no gaps. Cut six lengths of kitchen twine, each about 18 inches long. Tie the roll at even intervals, about two inches apart, pulling snugly but not so tight that the filling squeezes out. Tie the two end pieces first, then fill in the middle.
In a heavy Dutch oven or braising pan large enough to hold the roll, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Carefully place the roll in the pan and brown it on all sides, turning with tongs every few minutes. This takes 12 to 15 minutes total. The surface should be deeply golden. Remove the roll to a plate.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the onion, celery, and carrot to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally and scraping up the browned bits from the bottom, until the vegetables soften and the onion turns golden, about 10 minutes. Pour in the red wine and let it bubble until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes, beef broth, and bay leaves. Stir to combine and bring to a simmer.
Return the browned roll to the pot, nestling it into the liquid. The liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the roll. Cover the pot and reduce heat to low. The liquid should maintain the gentlest simmer, with only occasional bubbles breaking the surface. Braise for 2 and a half to 3 hours, turning the roll once halfway through. The meat is done when a fork inserted into the center meets no resistance.
Transfer the roll to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Let it rest for at least 20 minutes. This is essential. A rested roll slices cleanly; a freshly braised one falls apart. While the meat rests, taste the sauce and adjust seasoning. Remove the bay leaves. The sauce should be thick enough to coat a spoon. If too thin, simmer uncovered to reduce.
Remove the twine from the roll. Using a sharp knife, cut the roll into slices about three-quarters of an inch thick. Arrange the slices on a warm platter, overlapping slightly, so the mosaic pattern is visible. Spoon the warm sauce over and around the slices. Serve immediately, with additional sauce passed at the table.
1 serving (about 450g)
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