
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Sevilla's espinacas con garbanzos keeps chickpeas and spinach thick, dark, and spoonable, with a majado of fried bread, garlic, cumin, pimentón, and sherry vinegar doing the real work.
Espinacas con garbanzos is Sevillian and Andaluz, the chickpea and spinach dish you meet in a bar as a tapa and at home as a small stew. What makes it itself is the majado: fried bread, garlic, cumin, pimentón, and vinegar pounded into a paste so the greens and chickpeas bind thickly instead of swimming. No cod. That belongs to a different Lenten potaje.
The step that decides it is the bread and garlic. Fry them gently in olive oil until the bread is deep gold and the garlic smells sweet, then pound them with cumin, pimentón, vinagre de Jerez, and a little chickpea liquid. That paste is the body of the dish. Rush it, or leave it coarse and dry, and you get chickpeas on spinach instead of espinacas con garbanzos.
No hace falta haber pisado España. Cooked chickpeas from a good jar or can are fine here, because this dish has always welcomed the chickpeas already in the pot; they won't be as buttery as chickpeas you soaked and simmered yourself, so give them ten minutes with a bay leaf and save the liquid. Fresh mature spinach is best, but frozen leaf spinach works honestly if you thaw it and squeeze out the extra water. The Margin beside this one says, "thick enough for bread." Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Espinacas con garbanzos belongs especially to Sevilla and western Andalucía, where chickpeas, spinach, cumin, garlic, fried bread, and vinegar show the long inheritance of Andalusí cooking inside the later Christian fasting table. It is served in tabernas as a tapa and at home during Cuaresma and Semana Santa because it gives the body of a stew without meat, and in this Sevillian version without bacalao. The majado, fried bread and garlic pounded with cumin and vinegar, is the old thickener that makes the dish cling to the chickpeas instead of falling into soup.
Quantity
500g
drained, liquid reserved if from a jar
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
500g fresh or 450g frozen
washed and stemmed, or thawed and squeezed
Quantity
70ml
Quantity
45g
torn into 2cm pieces
Quantity
4
peeled and halved
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
30ml, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cooked chickpeasdrained, liquid reserved if from a jar | 500g |
| chickpea cooking liquid or water | 250ml |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| fresh mature spinach, or frozen leaf spinachwashed and stemmed, or thawed and squeezed | 500g fresh or 450g frozen |
| extra virgin olive oil | 70ml |
| day-old rustic breadtorn into 2cm pieces | 45g |
| garlic clovespeeled and halved | 4 |
| ground cumin | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| sweet pimentón de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| hot pimentón or cayenne (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| vinagre de Jerez (sherry vinegar) | 30ml, plus more to taste |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
Put the cooked chickpeas in a small pot with the bay leaf and 250ml chickpea cooking liquid or water. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then reserve 180ml of the liquid, discard the bay leaf, and set the chickpeas aside. Jarred chickpeas have better body; canned ones are still fine, but this short simmer wakes them up and softens the edges.
Put the fresh spinach in a wide pan with just the water clinging to its leaves and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook over medium heat for 2 to 4 minutes, turning once or twice, until collapsed. Drain well, press out the extra water, and chop roughly. If using frozen leaf spinach, thaw it fully and squeeze it until damp but not bone dry.
Wipe the wide pan dry and add the olive oil. Fry the bread and garlic over medium heat until the bread is deep gold and the garlic is pale gold and sweet-smelling, 3 to 5 minutes. Lift both into a mortar with a slotted spoon and take the pan off the heat. Do not let the garlic brown hard, or it will make the whole dish bitter.
Add the cumin, sweet pimentón, hot pimentón if using, and salt to the mortar. Pound everything to a thick paste, then work in the sherry vinegar and 100ml of the reserved chickpea liquid. This is the majado, the fried bread and garlic paste that binds the dish; make it smooth enough to melt into the pan, not so dry that it sits in lumps.
Return the pan with its oil to medium-low heat. Add the chickpeas and spinach and turn them through the oil for 2 minutes. Stir in the majado and another 80ml of reserved chickpea liquid, then simmer 8 to 10 minutes, stirring and crushing a spoonful of chickpeas against the side of the pan, until the sauce is thick, glossy, and clinging to everything. Add extra liquid only a tablespoon at a time. This should not be soup.
Take the pan off the heat and let it rest for 5 minutes. Taste for salt and vinegar; the final spoonful should be earthy from cumin, smoky from pimentón, and bright at the end from the sherry vinegar. Serve warm in shallow bowls or straight from a cazuela, with bread for pushing and mopping. Tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 315g)
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