
Chef Isabel
Asadillo Manchego
Asadillo Manchego is La Mancha's roasted pepper salad: red peppers, tomato, olive oil, garlic, and cumin, pounded plainly and served with egg, warm or cold.
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Ensalada Ilustrada is Aragón's dressed-up green salad: crisp leaves covered with tuna, egg, white asparagus, roasted pepper, and black olives, then dressed simply so every good conserva tastes like itself.
Ensalada Ilustrada is Aragón's dressed-up salad, a bed of crisp lettuce made generous with tuna in olive oil, hard-boiled egg, white asparagus, roasted pepper, olives, and a plain oil-and-vinegar dressing. The name means illustrated, and it earns it: the green salad is not buried or chopped small. It is set out with its good things plainly on top, the way a shared platter should be.
The step that decides it is water. Wash the lettuce, then dry it properly; drain the asparagus, pepper, and tuna until they stop weeping into the plate. A dressed-up salad can still be a soggy salad if you hurry. Dry leaves take the vinaigrette. Wet leaves give you a puddle at the bottom.
For the right taste, buy the good pantry things: bonito del norte if you can, white asparagus from a jar or tin, roasted red pepper with some flesh to it, and black olives de Aragón, Empeltre if they cross your path. No hace falta haber pisado España. Oil-packed tuna works, any firm jarred white asparagus works, and green asparagus, blanched and cooled, will do when it must, though it eats fresher and less soft than the conserva.
Keep the dressing sharp and simple: red wine vinegar, olive oil, salt. No mayonnaise, no sweet bottled dressing, no heap of every jar in the cupboard. My Margin says only: dry first, dress last. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Ensalada ilustrada belongs to Aragón's home and fonda table, especially the Ebro valley habit of setting preserved vegetables, fish conservas, egg, and olives over simple greens when a plain salad needed to feed company. The name ilustrada means the salad has been "illustrated" or dressed up, often with white asparagus and roasted peppers from the wider Ebro pantry, bonito or tuna from the tin, and black Empeltre olives from Bajo Aragón. It shows the region's practical abundance: fresh lettuce where the season gives it, and the preserving shelf doing the rest.
Quantity
2
Quantity
300g
washed and dried very well
Quantity
200g
cut into wedges
Quantity
60g
thinly sliced
Quantity
160g
drained in large flakes, oil reserved if good
Quantity
150g
drained
Quantity
150g
drained
Quantity
60g
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
20ml
Quantity
5g, plus more to finish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large eggs | 2 |
| crisp lettuce, preferably romaine or sweet leaf lettucewashed and dried very well | 300g |
| ripe tomato (optional)cut into wedges | 200g |
| sweet onion, preferably Cebolla de Fuentesthinly sliced | 60g |
| bonito del norte or tuna in olive oildrained in large flakes, oil reserved if good | 160g |
| white asparagus spearsdrained | 150g |
| roasted red pepper stripsdrained | 150g |
| black olives de Aragón or other good black olives | 60g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| red wine vinegar | 20ml |
| fine sea salt | 5g, plus more to finish |
Put the eggs in a small saucepan and cover with cold water by 2cm. Bring to a boil, lower to a steady simmer, and cook 10 minutes. Cool in cold water, peel, and cut each egg into quarters. Salt the cut sides lightly.
Wash the lettuce, spin it dry, then spread it on a clean towel and pat until no water beads on the leaves. Tear it into generous pieces. This is the step that decides the salad: vinaigrette clings to dry leaves, while wet leaves give you a puddle at the bottom.
Drain the tuna, asparagus, and roasted pepper well. Pat the asparagus and pepper with a towel so they don't water down the dressing. Flake the tuna in large pieces, halve the asparagus lengthwise if the spears are thick, and keep the pepper in broad strips. If the tomato is ripe enough to use, salt the wedges and let them sit 5 minutes.
Whisk the olive oil, red wine vinegar, and 5g salt until glossy. If the tuna was packed in good olive oil, replace 15ml of the measured olive oil with that reserved oil. Taste it on a lettuce leaf; it should be bright enough to stand up to the egg and tuna.
Toss the lettuce, onion, and tomato if using with half the dressing, then spread them on a wide platter. Arrange the tuna, egg, asparagus, roasted pepper, and olives over the top in loose bands, not chopped through the leaves. Spoon over the remaining dressing and serve at once, or within 20 minutes. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
1 serving (about 315g)
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