
Chef Thomas
All-Butter Shortbread Fingers
The plainest biscuit in the tin and the hardest one to stop eating, three ingredients and a slow oven turning good butter into something quietly perfect with a cup of tea.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A proper British custard tart with a crisp shortcrust base, a silky vanilla custard barely set, and a thick veil of fresh nutmeg grated over the top.
There's a slice of custard tart in every proper bakery in this country, sitting behind glass with its pale wobble and its dusty cap of nutmeg, and it has been there in some form since 1399. Coronation banquets. Village high streets. The same tart, more or less, for six hundred years. That tells you something about how good it is.
Making one at home is a quieter pleasure than buying one. The pastry has to be properly cold and properly blind-baked. The custard has to be barely set, with that faint wobble at the centre that means you took it out at exactly the right moment. The nutmeg has to be grated fresh, from a whole nutmeg, because the pre-ground stuff tastes of dust. None of this is difficult. It just asks you to pay attention.
This is a tart for the afternoon. A slice with a cup of tea, the kettle just boiled, the rain doing whatever it's doing outside. Or after Sunday lunch, when nobody really wants pudding but everyone has room for a thin slice of this. It's not flashy. It doesn't need to be. There are few better feelings than putting a slice of proper custard tart in front of someone who hasn't had one in years.
I wrote it down in the notebook the first time I got it right: pastry crisp, custard set, nutmeg generous. That's the whole brief.
Quantity
200g
plus extra for dusting
Quantity
100g
cubed
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1
Quantity
2-3 tablespoons
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
300ml
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
6
Quantity
1
Quantity
60g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
for grating
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flourplus extra for dusting | 200g |
| cold unsalted buttercubed | 100g |
| icing sugar | 30g |
| large egg yolk | 1 |
| cold water | 2-3 tablespoons |
| fine sea salt | pinch |
| double cream | 300ml |
| whole milk | 150ml |
| large egg yolks | 6 |
| whole large egg | 1 |
| caster sugar | 60g |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| whole nutmegfor grating | 1 |
Tip the flour, icing sugar and salt into a bowl. Add the cold butter and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs. Don't overdo it. A few larger flecks of butter are fine and will make the pastry shorter. Stir in the egg yolk and just enough cold water to bring it together into a rough dough. Press it into a flat disc, wrap it, and put it in the fridge for at least an hour.
Roll the chilled pastry out on a lightly floured surface to about the thickness of a pound coin. Lift it carefully into a 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin, pressing it gently into the corners and leaving the edges hanging over the rim. Don't trim them yet. Pastry shrinks in the oven and the overhang gives you a margin for error. Prick the base lightly with a fork and chill for another twenty minutes.
Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan. Line the chilled pastry case with baking parchment and fill it with baking beans or rice. Bake for fifteen minutes, then lift out the parchment and beans and bake for another eight to ten minutes until the base looks dry and the edges are pale gold. The pastry should look biscuity, not greasy. Let it cool slightly, then trim the overhanging edges with a sharp knife. Drop the oven temperature to 140C/120C fan.
Pour the cream and milk into a saucepan with the vanilla. Warm it over a gentle heat until it's just steaming and you can see a faint shimmer at the edges. Don't let it boil. Take it off the heat and let it sit for a minute or two while you deal with the eggs.
Whisk the egg yolks, the whole egg, and the sugar together in a bowl until the sugar has dissolved. Whisk gently. You don't want to beat air into it, just bring it together. Pour the warm cream over the eggs in a slow stream, whisking the whole time, until everything is combined. Strain the custard through a fine sieve into a jug. This catches any stringy bits and gives you the silky finish that makes the difference.
Slide the pastry case, still in its tin, onto the middle shelf of the oven. Pour the custard carefully into the case, right up to the rim. Filling it at the oven door means you don't have to carry a wobbling tart across the kitchen. Grate a generous layer of fresh nutmeg over the top. Bake at 140C/120C fan for thirty to thirty-five minutes. The custard is ready when the edges are set but the very centre still has a slight wobble, like a panna cotta. It will continue to set as it cools.
Let the tart cool in the tin on a wire rack until it reaches room temperature. Don't be tempted to put it in the fridge straight away. The custard needs the slow cool to settle properly. Once cooled, you can chill it for an hour or two if you prefer it cold, or serve it as it is. A final grating of nutmeg over the top before slicing. Cut with a long, sharp knife wiped clean between slices.
1 serving (about 130g)
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