
Chef Isabel
Acedías Fritas de Cádiz
Acedías fritas belong to Cádiz: tiny wedge sole, salted, dusted in frying flour, and dropped into very hot olive oil so the rims crisp while the fish stays tender.
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Croquetas de jamón madrileñas belong to the taberna table: a thick, patient bechamel carrying cured ham, chilled firm, breaded well, and fried until crisp outside and soft within.
Croquetas de jamón madrileñas are taberna cooking from Madrid at its plainest and best: cured jamón folded through a thick bechamel, chilled until it can be shaped, then breaded and fried so the outside is crisp and the inside turns soft and spoonable. They are not little potato cakes, and they are not a place to hide poor ham. The ham is the dish's name, so let it taste of ham.
The method that decides them is the bechamel. Cook the flour in the butter and oil until it loses its raw smell, then add warm milk little by little and keep stirring until the paste pulls cleanly from the pan. That slow cook is what gives you a filling that sets in the fridge and melts in the fryer. Rush it and you get either floury paste or sauce that leaks. Neither is a croqueta. Pésalo, no lo adivines.
If you are far from Madrid, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use the best dry-cured ham you can find, ideally jamón serrano. Prosciutto works at a pinch, but it is sweeter and softer, so chop it fine and use a little less salt. Chill the dough well, bread it twice if your kitchen is warm, and fry in small batches. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Croquetas entered Spanish kitchens from the French croquette, but Spain made them its own by using the household bechamel to carry leftovers from the larder, especially jamón. Madrid's old tabernas helped make croquetas de jamón a standard tapa, not a cuisine in itself, but one small plate among many on the counter. In home kitchens, they became a practical celebration dish because a little cured ham could season a whole tray.
Quantity
80g
very finely chopped
Quantity
80g
Quantity
20ml
Quantity
90g
for the bechamel
Quantity
750ml
warmed
Quantity
40g
very finely minced
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more only if needed
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2
beaten
Quantity
150g
Quantity
60g
for coating
Quantity
1 litre
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| jamón serrano or jamón ibéricovery finely chopped | 80g |
| unsalted butter | 80g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 20ml |
| plain flourfor the bechamel | 90g |
| whole milkwarmed | 750ml |
| onionvery finely minced | 40g |
| freshly grated nutmeg | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more only if needed |
| black pepper | to taste |
| large eggsbeaten | 2 |
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 150g |
| plain flourfor coating | 60g |
| mild olive oil or sunflower oilfor frying | 1 litre |
Melt the butter with the olive oil in a wide heavy pan over low heat. Add the minced onion and cook it gently for 8 to 10 minutes, until soft and translucent but not browned. This is a quiet base, not a sofrito taken dark; the croqueta wants sweetness without color.
Add the 90g flour and stir constantly for 3 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan. It should smell nutty and no longer raw, but stay pale. This little roux is the spine of the croqueta, so don't leave dry flour hiding in the corners.
Add the warm milk a ladleful at a time, stirring hard after each addition until the paste turns smooth before you add the next. When all the milk is in, season with nutmeg, pepper, and the measured salt. Keep cooking over medium-low heat for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring all the time, until the bechamel is very thick and pulls cleanly from the sides and base of the pan.
Stir in the chopped jamón and cook for 1 minute more, just long enough for its fat to perfume the bechamel. Taste before adding any more salt; jamón carries its own. The mixture should be thick enough that a spoon dragged through it leaves a clear track for a moment.
Scrape the bechamel into a shallow dish, smooth the top, and press baking paper or plastic wrap directly onto the surface. Chill for at least 3 hours, or overnight if you can. Cold dough shapes cleanly; warm dough teaches patience the messy way. Nadie nace sabiendo.
Set out three bowls: 60g flour, beaten eggs, and breadcrumbs. With lightly oiled hands or two spoons, shape the cold dough into 24 small logs, about 30g each. Roll each one in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs, coating every seam. For a sturdier crust, pass them through egg and breadcrumbs a second time.
Heat the frying oil to 180C in a deep pan. Fry 5 or 6 croquetas at a time for 2 to 3 minutes, turning gently, until evenly deep golden. Do not crowd the pan or the oil cools and the crust drinks grease before it sets.
Lift the croquetas onto a rack or paper towels and let them stand for 2 minutes before serving. The center will be very soft, which is the point. Serve them hot, with nothing more than a small glass of vermut or a cold beer beside them. Tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 60g)
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