
Chef Dean
American Goulash
A Midwestern one-pot supper of seasoned ground beef, tender elbow macaroni, and tomatoes simmered into a thick, soul-satisfying stew. This is the dish that fed factory workers and farm families alike.
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Burnished golden hens, each a personal feast, cradling a pilaf of true wild rice, dried cranberries, and toasted pecans. This is Christmas dinner scaled to intimacy without sacrificing a single ounce of celebration.
The Cornish game hen arrived on American tables in the 1950s, a Connecticut creation bred for tenderness and portion control. One bird per guest. No carving debates, no arguments over white meat versus dark. Everyone receives the whole magnificent creature, golden and glistening, a complete dinner unto itself.
Wild rice deserves a moment of respect here. This is not rice at all but the seed of an aquatic grass native to the Great Lakes, harvested by Ojibwe peoples for centuries before Europeans arrived. True wild rice, hand-harvested from Minnesota or Wisconsin waters, has a nuttiness and chew that cultivated paddyrice simply cannot replicate. If you can find it, buy it. The difference matters.
I've served this dish at Christmas gatherings for decades. The presentation stuns guests who expect the usual turkey production. Each hen emerges from the oven with skin pulled taut and crackling, the cavity releasing steam perfumed with herbs and the earthy sweetness of the pilaf. You can prepare nearly everything a day ahead, which leaves Christmas morning free for other pursuits.
This is honest holiday cooking. Not fussy, not pretentious, but worthy of the occasion and the people around your table.
Quantity
6 (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds each)
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
8 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1 large
finely diced
Quantity
3 stalks
finely diced
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
toasted and roughly chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
minced
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus more for seasoning
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more for seasoning
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
for garnish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Cornish game hens | 6 (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds each) |
| true wild rice | 1 1/2 cups |
| chicken stock, preferably homemade | 4 cups |
| unsalted butterdivided | 8 tablespoons |
| yellow onionfinely diced | 1 large |
| celeryfinely diced | 3 stalks |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| dried cranberries | 1/2 cup |
| pecanstoasted and roughly chopped | 1/2 cup |
| fresh thyme leaves | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh sageminced | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh rosemaryminced | 1 tablespoon |
| kosher salt | 2 teaspoons, plus more for seasoning |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon, plus more for seasoning |
| olive oil | 1/4 cup |
| dry white wine | 1/2 cup |
| honey | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh herb sprigs (optional) | for garnish |
Rinse the wild rice under cold running water, swirling it with your fingers to release any debris. Combine rice and chicken stock in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 45 to 55 minutes. True wild rice is done when kernels have split open to reveal their pale interior, tender but still possessing a pleasant chew. Drain any excess liquid and spread rice on a sheet pan to cool. The grains should remain separate, not clumped.
Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add onion and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 8 minutes. The vegetables should release their moisture without taking on color. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, another minute. The kitchen should smell sweet and savory, the foundation of something good.
Add the cooled wild rice to the skillet with the vegetables. Fold in cranberries, toasted pecans, thyme, sage, and half the rosemary. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Taste and adjust. The stuffing should be robustly seasoned because it will be enclosed inside the bird, muted slightly by the surrounding meat. Transfer to a bowl and let cool completely before stuffing the hens.
Remove hens from refrigerator 30 minutes before roasting. Pat each bird thoroughly dry inside and out with paper towels. This step matters enormously. Wet skin steams rather than crisps. Season the cavities with salt and pepper. Loosely pack each hen with about 1/2 cup of the wild rice stuffing. Don't compress it; the grains need room to absorb the bird's juices as they cook.
Cross the drumsticks and tie them together with kitchen twine. Tuck the wing tips behind the back to prevent burning. Combine olive oil with remaining rosemary, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Rub this mixture generously over every surface of each bird. The oil carries the herb flavor while promoting browning. Arrange hens breast-side up in a large roasting pan or on two rimmed sheet pans, leaving at least 2 inches between each bird for air circulation.
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 425°F. Roast hens for 25 minutes. The skin will begin to turn golden and tighten across the breast. Meanwhile, melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter with honey in a small saucepan. After 25 minutes, brush hens with the honey butter and pour white wine into the bottom of the roasting pan. Continue roasting for 25 to 35 minutes more, basting once or twice with pan juices, until skin is deep mahogany and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165°F.
Transfer hens to a cutting board or warm platter and tent loosely with foil. They need 10 minutes to rest, during which the juices redistribute through the meat. Don't skip this. Place the roasting pan over medium heat on your stovetop. Scrape up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, adding a splash of stock or wine if the pan looks dry. Swirl in a tablespoon of cold butter to create a glossy, emulsified sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Present each hen on a warm dinner plate or arrange all six on a large platter lined with fresh herb sprigs. Spoon pan sauce around, not over, the birds to preserve the crispy skin. Pass extra stuffing in a warm serving bowl. The table should look abundant. This is a feast.
1 serving (about 515g)
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