
Chef Lupita
Almendrados Conventuales Poblanos
Puebla's convent almond cookies, made from blanched almonds, sugar syrup, egg yolks, canela, and patient hands, the kind of sweet that belongs beside coffee in talavera, not in a plastic bakery box.
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Ciudad de México's panadería corbatas are crisp strips of hojaldre twisted into bowties, pressed with sugar, and baked until the edges flake apart over the plate.
Ciudad de México owns the panadería counter. Colonia Roma, La Merced, Portales, Tacubaya, every neighborhood has its own trays of conchas, orejas, campechanas, and corbatas lined up under glass before the morning coffee is poured.
Corbatas are not ceremonial bread. They are everyday bakery intelligence: flour, fat, water, salt, and sugar turned into something crisp enough to leave crumbs on your blouse. The technique is the thing. Hojaldre depends on cold fat trapped between thin layers of dough. The oven hits those layers, the water pushes upward, and the pastry opens like pages in a notebook. If the butter melts before baking, you get a greasy cracker. No me vengas con atajos.
I learned this kind of pan dulce from the women who ran neighborhood ovens, not from pastry chefs with rulers. They knew by touch when the dough was cold enough, by sound when the sugar had set against the pastry, by smell when the edges were gold instead of burned. This is capitalino bakery food, plain and exact. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.
Mexican hojaldre entered urban bakery culture through Spanish colonial baking and later absorbed strong French technique during the 19th century, especially in Mexico City under Porfirian tastes for European-style pan dulce. Corbatas became part of the practical panadería repertoire because laminated dough scraps could be cut, twisted, sugared, and baked into a sellable pastry with almost no waste. Unlike regional breads tied to feast days, corbatas belong to daily city bakery life, the kind of bread bought by the piece with tongs and carried home in a paper bag.
Quantity
2 1/2 cups
plus more for rolling
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 cup
cold, cut into 1/2-inch slabs
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for rolling | 2 1/2 cups |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| granulated sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| cold water | 1 cup |
| fresh lime juice | 2 teaspoons |
| unsalted buttercold, cut into 1/2-inch slabs | 1 cup |
| granulated sugar for pressing and finishing | 1/2 cup |
| egg white | 1 |
| water for egg wash | 1 tablespoon |
Mix the flour, salt, and one teaspoon sugar in a wide bowl. Stir the cold water with the lime juice, then add it gradually until the dough comes together in a rough, shaggy mass. Do not knead it smooth. Hojaldre wants structure, not toughness. Pat it into a square, wrap it, and chill for 30 minutes.
Lay the cold butter slabs between two sheets of parchment and pound them with a rolling pin into a 6-inch square. Keep the edges straight. The butter should bend without cracking and stay cold to the touch. If it shines or smears, it is too warm. Put it back in the refrigerator.
Roll the chilled dough into a 10-inch square. Set the butter square in the center like a diamond, then fold the dough corners over it until the butter is fully enclosed. Pinch the seams shut. Flour lightly, then roll into a long rectangle about 8 by 18 inches. Work with confidence, not violence.
Fold the rectangle in thirds like a letter. Turn it 90 degrees, roll again to the same size, and fold in thirds again. Wrap and chill for 30 minutes. Repeat this roll-and-fold process two more times, chilling 30 minutes between rounds. These folds are the layers. Skip them and you are not making hojaldre.
Heat the oven to 400F. Line two baking sheets with parchment. Roll the finished dough on a sugared surface into a rectangle about 10 by 16 inches and 1/8 inch thick. Sprinkle the top with more sugar and press it in gently with the rolling pin. Cut into sixteen strips, each about 1 inch wide and 10 inches long.
Pinch each strip lightly at the center and twist once, making the shape of a corbata, a bowtie. Set them on the baking sheets with space between each one. Beat the egg white with one tablespoon water and brush only a thin layer over the top. Scatter a final pinch of sugar over each pastry.
Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the corbatas are puffed, golden at the ridges, and deeply crisp at the sugared edges. Do not pull them pale. Pale hojaldre tastes like flour and regret. Let them cool on the pan for five minutes, then move to a rack so the bottoms stay crisp.
1 serving (about 45g)
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Chef Lupita
Puebla's convent almond cookies, made from blanched almonds, sugar syrup, egg yolks, canela, and patient hands, the kind of sweet that belongs beside coffee in talavera, not in a plastic bakery box.

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