
Chef Dean
Broccoli Cheddar Soup
A bowlful of pure American comfort: velvety soup loaded with tender broccoli and an almost indecent amount of sharp cheddar, the kind of honest cooking that warms you from the inside out.
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A bowl of pure comfort built the right way: whole chicken simmered into golden, gelatinous broth, honest vegetables cooked until just tender, and wide egg noodles that catch every drop of healing liquid.
This is not merely soup. This is medicine, memory, and love rendered in broth form. Every culture has its restorative dish, and for Americans, chicken noodle soup holds that sacred position. Your grandmother made it. Her grandmother made it. The technique has survived because it works.
The secret lives in the stock. You will simmer a whole chicken with aromatics until the bones surrender their collagen and the meat releases its essence into the liquid. This takes time. There are no shortcuts worth discussing. The cartilage melts into gelatin that gives the broth body, that silky quality coating your lips that makes a second bowl inevitable. When the stock cools, it should jiggle like Jell-O. That's how you know you've done it right.
I've taught this recipe to hundreds of students over the decades. Most arrive convinced soup requires little thought. They're wrong. The best chicken noodle soup demands the same respect you'd give a Sunday roast. Proper skimming. Gentle heat. Fresh vegetables cut with intention. These small acts of care accumulate into something greater than the sum of ingredients.
Make this on a Sunday when time moves slowly. The kitchen will fill with steam and the smell of something honest. You'll have enough to feed a family and freeze the rest for when someone you love needs healing.
Quantity
1 (4 to 5 pounds)
Quantity
5 quarts
Quantity
2 medium
quartered
Quantity
4
cut into 3-inch pieces
Quantity
4 medium
scrubbed and cut into 3-inch pieces
Quantity
1
halved crosswise
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
6 sprigs
Quantity
4 sprigs
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 tablespoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4
sliced 1/4-inch thick
Quantity
4 medium
peeled and sliced into coins
Quantity
12 ounces
Quantity
3 tablespoons
roughly chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole chicken | 1 (4 to 5 pounds) |
| cold water | 5 quarts |
| yellow onions (for stock)quartered | 2 medium |
| celery stalks with leaves (for stock)cut into 3-inch pieces | 4 |
| carrots (for stock)scrubbed and cut into 3-inch pieces | 4 medium |
| head of garlichalved crosswise | 1 |
| whole black peppercorns | 2 teaspoons |
| fresh thyme | 6 sprigs |
| fresh parsley (for stock) | 4 sprigs |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| kosher salt | 1 tablespoon, plus more to taste |
| unsalted butter | 3 tablespoons |
| yellow onion (for soup)diced | 1 large |
| celery stalks (for soup)sliced 1/4-inch thick | 4 |
| carrots (for soup)peeled and sliced into coins | 4 medium |
| wide egg noodles | 12 ounces |
| fresh dillroughly chopped | 3 tablespoons |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Place the whole chicken breast-side up in your largest stockpot. Cover with five quarts of cold water. This is not negotiable. Cold water extracts proteins slowly, allowing impurities to coagulate and rise as foam rather than dispersing throughout your broth. Hot water shocks the proteins and clouds everything. The water should cover the bird by at least two inches.
Set the pot over medium-high heat. Watch it closely as the water approaches a simmer. Within fifteen to twenty minutes, gray foam will begin rising to the surface. This is albumin, blood proteins, and other impurities you do not want in your soup. Skim it away patiently with a large spoon or ladle until the foam turns white and less frequent. This process takes ten to fifteen minutes of attention. Do not let the pot reach a rolling boil.
Once skimmed, add the quartered onions, celery pieces, carrot pieces, halved garlic head, peppercorns, thyme sprigs, parsley sprigs, bay leaves, and one tablespoon of kosher salt. Reduce heat until you see only the laziest bubbles rising every few seconds. A single bubble breaking the surface every three or four seconds is perfect. A vigorous boil emulsifies the fat and produces cloudy, greasy stock.
Let the stock simmer uncovered for one and a half to two hours. The chicken is done when the leg joint moves freely in its socket and the meat pulls away from the bone with minimal resistance. The skin will appear loose and papery, the breast meat visibly pulled back from the breastbone. The kitchen will smell like everything good in the world. Remove from heat.
Using two large slotted spoons or a spider strainer, carefully transfer the chicken to a large rimmed baking sheet. It will be fragile and falling apart. Let it cool for fifteen minutes until you can handle it. Remove and discard the skin. Pull the meat from the bones in generous shreds, following the natural grain of the muscle. You should have about four cups of meat. Reserve the bones for another stock if you're frugal, or discard.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a large clean pot or heatproof container. Strain the stock, pressing gently on the spent vegetables to extract their liquid but not so hard that you force solids through. Discard the vegetables. You should have about three and a half quarts of beautiful golden stock. Taste it. It should be deeply chickeny with a silky, slightly viscous quality from the gelatin. If it tastes thin, you can reduce it later.
Wipe out your stockpot and return it to medium heat. Add the butter and let it melt and foam. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent but not browned, about five minutes. The onion should look glassy and smell sweet. Add the sliced celery and carrot coins. Cook another three minutes, stirring, until they begin to soften at the edges.
Pour in the strained stock. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Let the vegetables cook until tender but not mushy, twelve to fifteen minutes. A knife should slide through a carrot coin with slight resistance. They will continue cooking, so err on the side of firmness. Taste the broth now and add salt as needed. It likely needs more than you think.
Add the egg noodles directly to the simmering soup. Stir immediately to prevent sticking. Cook until the noodles are tender but retain pleasant resistance when you bite through, eight to ten minutes depending on the noodle width. Wide noodles catch more broth and create a more satisfying bite. Stir occasionally to ensure even cooking.
Return the shredded chicken to the pot and stir gently to distribute. Heat through for two to three minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in the chopped dill, parsley, and lemon juice. The herbs should stay bright green and the lemon should lift everything without tasting citrusy. Taste once more and adjust salt and pepper. Ladle into deep bowls and serve immediately with good crusty bread for dipping.
1 serving (about 350g)
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