Classic Buffalo Wings with Blue Cheese

Teressa Bellissimo invented these wings at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York in 1964. The story goes that her son and his friends arrived hungry after midnight, and she improvised with the only meat she had: chicken wings, then considered throwaway parts fit only for stock. She fried them, tossed them in hot sauce and butter, and served them with celery from the antipasto and blue cheese dressing from the house salad. Sixty years later, we're still chasing that moment.

The technique is honest and unforgiving. Your wings must be dry before they hit the oil. Moisture creates steam, and steam prevents the skin from crisping. Pat them aggressively with paper towels, then let them sit uncovered in the refrigerator for at least an hour, preferably overnight. This step separates the wings you'll be proud of from the soggy disappointments you've encountered at lesser establishments.

The sauce formula is sacred: Frank's RedHot and butter in equal measure, whisked until emulsified. Some recipes call for cayenne or garlic powder. I call for restraint. The original achieved perfection through simplicity. Your job is to execute the fundamentals, not to improve upon genius.