
Chef Lupita
Aporreadillo Michoacano con Huevo
Michoacán's Tierra Caliente almuerzo, where salted beef is softened, pounded, fried in lard, folded with egg and chile perón salsa, then served beside morisqueta like a proper working table.
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Chiapas highland pork chorizo from Comitán, reddened with chile simojovel and achiote, cured two nights in vinegar and herbs, then fried beside black beans refried in manteca.
Chiapas, the Comitán highlands, Los Llanos close to the Guatemalan line. This chorizo lives in cold morning kitchens where pork is rubbed red with chile simojovel, achiote, vinagre de caña, tomillo, mejorana, orégano, laurel, and garlic, then cured two nights so the seasoning enters the meat instead of sitting on top.
At the market in Comitán, the señoras do not speak of Mexican chorizo as if there were one. They know the local bite of simojovel, the sharpness of vinegar, and the black beans refried in manteca de cerdo until they hold the spoon for a breath before folding back into the cazuela. This is the Maya south, not a generic red sausage from a supermarket tray.
My mother was from Jalisco, so this was not in her notebook. I learned it standing beside Comiteca cooks who corrected my beans first: more lard, less broth, let them fry. They were right. Serve the chorizo with frijol negro refrito, queso crema de Chiapas, tortilla coleta hot from the comal, and clay on the table, Amatenango or Chamula glaze if you have it. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Pork embutidos entered Chiapas after Spanish livestock and sausage-making arrived in the 16th century, but Comitán's version adapted the method to the highlands with local dried chile, achiote, vinegar, and herbs instead of Spanish pimentón. Chile simojovel takes its name from Simojovel, in northern Chiapas, where small red chiles are dried for adobos and table salsas; its use marks this as chiapaneco, not central Mexican. The pairing with frijol negro refrito and tortilla coleta reflects the breakfast table of Los Llanos and Los Altos, a practical plate built from corn, beans, pork fat, and cured meat that could be made ahead before refrigeration was dependable.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
very cold, coarsely ground
Quantity
8 ounces
very cold, coarsely ground
Quantity
10
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
2
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
8
peeled
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2
crumbled
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
3
Quantity
1 small piece
about 1 inch
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
4 cups
with 1 cup bean broth reserved
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1/2
finely chopped
Quantity
1
minced
Quantity
1 sprig
leaves chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
8
warmed
Quantity
3 ounces
crumbled
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pork shouldervery cold, coarsely ground | 1 1/2 pounds |
| pork back fat or fatty pork bellyvery cold, coarsely ground | 8 ounces |
| chile simojovel secostemmed and seeded | 10 |
| chile ancho secostemmed and seeded | 2 |
| vinagre de caña or vinagre de piña | 1/2 cup |
| garlic clovespeeled | 8 |
| achiote paste | 1 tablespoon |
| orégano seco mexicano | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| dried tomillo | 1 teaspoon |
| dried mejorana | 1 teaspoon |
| bay leavescrumbled | 2 |
| black peppercorns | 1 teaspoon |
| cumin seeds | 1/2 teaspoon |
| whole cloves | 3 |
| Mexican canelaabout 1 inch | 1 small piece |
| fine sea salt | 1 tablespoon |
| grated piloncillo | 1 teaspoon |
| cooked frijol negro de Chiapaswith 1 cup bean broth reserved | 4 cups |
| manteca de cerdodivided | 4 tablespoons |
| white onionfinely chopped | 1/2 |
| garlic cloveminced | 1 |
| fresh epazoteleaves chopped | 1 sprig |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| tortilla coleta or thick hand-pressed corn tortillaswarmed | 8 |
| queso crema de Chiapas (optional)crumbled | 3 ounces |
| finely diced raw white onion (optional) | for serving |
Keep the ground pork and fat in the refrigerator while you work. Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the chile simojovel for 8 to 12 seconds per side, just until fragrant and a shade darker. Toast the chile ancho for about 20 seconds per side. Do not blacken them. Simojovel burns fast, and burned chile turns bitter before you have time to argue with it.
Put the toasted chiles in a bowl and cover with hot water for 15 minutes. Toast the peppercorns, cumin, cloves, canela, and bay leaves on the same comal until they smell warm and sharp, about 45 seconds. Drain the chiles and blend them with the vinegar, garlic, achiote paste, oregano, tomillo, mejorana, toasted spices, salt, piloncillo, and 2 tablespoons of the chile soaking water. The paste should be smooth, thick, and brick red.
Put the cold ground pork and fat in a chilled bowl. Add the adobo and mix with your hand for 3 to 4 minutes, until the meat turns evenly red and feels sticky. Fry a teaspoon of the mixture in a small skillet and taste it. It should taste salty, sharp from vinegar, and deep with chile. The edge will soften after the two-night cure.
Pack the seasoned pork into a glass, ceramic, or stainless steel container. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface, cover, and refrigerate for 36 to 48 hours, stirring once halfway through. The color will deepen, the vinegar will mellow, and the herbs will settle into the meat. This is a fresh cured chorizo, not a shelf-stable sausage. Keep it cold and cook it fully.
Heat a wide skillet or clay cazuela over medium. Add 1 tablespoon of manteca de cerdo if the pan is dry. Add the chorizo and break it into rough crumbles with a wooden spoon. Fry for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often, until the pork is cooked through, the edges darken, and the fat in the pan turns red from the chile and achiote. The pork should reach 160F. Remove the chorizo with a slotted spoon and leave the red fat in the pan.
Add the remaining 3 tablespoons manteca de cerdo to the chorizo fat. La manteca es el sabor. Fry the chopped onion until soft and lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and epazote and cook for 30 seconds. Add the cooked black beans with 1/2 cup of their broth and mash hard with a bean masher or potato masher. Cook 12 to 15 minutes, adding more broth only if needed, until the beans are thick, glossy, and slow to fall from the spoon.
Spoon the frijol refrito into a warm clay cazuela or onto a wide plate and mound the fried chorizo over one side so the red fat stains the beans. Scatter queso crema de Chiapas and finely diced raw white onion over the top if using. Warm the tortilla coleta on a comal until pliable with a few toasted spots, then wrap them in a servilleta. Serve immediately. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 320g)
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