
Chef Thomas
A Proper Chicken Broth
Sunday's roast chicken, simmered slowly on Monday with carrots, celery, leeks, and thyme into a bowl of clear, golden broth that smells like the kitchen is paying attention.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A pale, clean bowl of cold courgette soup for the nights when the garden is overproducing and the kitchen is too warm for anything that involves the oven.
Late July. The courgette plants have crossed the line from productive to aggressive. Every morning there are three more, fat and shining, where yesterday there were none. You've griddled them, roasted them, sliced them raw into salads with lemon and parmesan. And still they come.
This soup is the answer. It takes six courgettes off your hands in fifteen minutes and turns them into something you'll actually look forward to eating. No cream. No potato. The courgettes do the thickening themselves, blending into a naturally silky, pale green bowl that tastes cool and clean and faintly grassy. A squeeze of lemon sharpens it. Good olive oil and torn basil finish it. We're only making dinner.
I make this when the kitchen is too warm for the oven and the evening is the sort where cold food feels like a kindness. It's better the next day, which means you can make it on Sunday and eat it on Monday without thinking. I wrote it down in the notebook last summer: courgettes, basil, cold bowl, back door open. That was the whole entry. It was enough.
Quantity
6 medium (about 800g)
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 medium
sliced
Quantity
2 cloves
sliced
Quantity
a generous pour
Quantity
600ml
Quantity
half
juiced
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
a handful
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| courgettesroughly chopped | 6 medium (about 800g) |
| onionsliced | 1 medium |
| garlicsliced | 2 cloves |
| good olive oil | a generous pour |
| vegetable or light chicken stock | 600ml |
| lemonjuiced | half |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| basil leaves | a handful |
| extra olive oil (optional) | for finishing |
Pour a good glug of olive oil into a wide, heavy pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic with a pinch of salt. Let them soften for five minutes or so, stirring now and then, until they're translucent and sweet-smelling. No colour. You're not building a fond here, you're coaxing out gentleness.
Add the chopped courgettes and stir them through the oil. Let them cook for about eight to ten minutes, until they've gone soft and slightly collapsed, giving up their water. They'll lose their raw, grassy edge and start to smell green and mild, almost like a warm garden. Don't let them brown. You want the colour of this soup to stay pale and clean.
Pour in the stock. It should just cover the vegetables. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for ten minutes with the lid off. The courgettes will be completely tender, almost falling apart. That's what you want. They're going to do all the work of thickening this soup without any cream or potato.
Take the pan off the heat. Tear in most of the basil, keeping a few small leaves back for later. Blend until completely smooth. A stick blender is fine, but a proper countertop blender will give you a silkier finish if you care about that sort of thing. The texture should be like cold cream when it's done: smooth, light, with just enough body to coat the back of a spoon. Add the lemon juice and season well. More salt than you think. Cold food dulls flavour, so season it a touch more than feels right while it's warm.
Let the soup cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for at least two hours, or until properly cold. Taste it again once it's chilled and adjust the salt and lemon. Ladle into cold bowls. Tear the remaining basil over the top, add a thread of your best olive oil, and a grind of black pepper. That's it. Right food, right evening.
1 serving (about 375g)
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