
Chef Thomas
A Proper Roast Chicken
A whole bird rubbed with butter, stuffed with lemon and thyme, roasted until the skin crackles and the kitchen smells like the kind of evening you want to sit down and stay in.
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Created by Chef Thomas
Pasta shells folded through a leek-flecked cheese sauce with broccoli, baked until the top blisters gold and the whole kitchen smells like the kind of evening you want to sit down to.
There's a Tuesday evening in late October that this dish belongs to. The clocks have gone back. It's dark by five. You come in cold, put the kettle on, and the question isn't what to cook but what will make the kitchen feel like the warmest room in the house. This is the answer.
A pasta bake is not a glamorous thing, and it isn't trying to be. Shells in a white sauce, good cheddar melted through, broccoli and leeks because they're what the season gives you and because they belong here. The sauce is simple: butter, flour, milk, mustard, cheese. The kind of thing you can make without thinking once you've done it three or four times. The leeks go soft and sweet in the butter before the flour goes in, and that sweetness carries through the whole dish. A grating of nutmeg. A spoonful of mustard. The cheddar does the rest.
I make this more often than I write it down, which is the surest sign that a recipe has stopped being a recipe and become a habit. A conversation, not a contract. The broccoli can be cauliflower. The leeks can be onions. The pasta can be whatever's in the cupboard. Your kitchen, your rules. But the bones of it, the sauce, the cheese, the twenty minutes in a hot oven until the top goes golden and the edges start to bubble and catch, that's the part that stays the same.
There are few better feelings than carrying a dish like this to the table, still too hot to touch, and watching someone serve themselves a second helping without being asked. We're only making dinner. But sometimes that's enough.
Quantity
300g
conchiglie or similar
Quantity
1 large head
broken into florets
Quantity
2 medium
white and pale green parts, sliced
Quantity
50g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
500ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
200g
grated
Quantity
40g
finely grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
pinch
freshly grated
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pasta shellsconchiglie or similar | 300g |
| broccolibroken into florets | 1 large head |
| leekswhite and pale green parts, sliced | 2 medium |
| unsalted butter | 50g |
| plain flour | 2 tablespoons |
| whole milk | 500ml |
| English mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| mature cheddargrated | 200g |
| Parmesanfinely grated | 40g |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| nutmegfreshly grated | pinch |
Bring a large pan of well-salted water to the boil. Cook the pasta shells for two minutes less than the packet suggests. They'll finish cooking in the oven, and pasta that goes into a bake already soft comes out mushy. Add the broccoli florets for the final two minutes of cooking. Drain everything together, saving a mugful of the starchy cooking water. Set it all aside.
Melt the butter in the same pan over a gentle heat. Add the sliced leeks and a pinch of salt. Let them cook slowly, stirring now and then, until they've gone soft and silky and the kitchen smells sweet and buttery. Ten minutes, give or take. You're not looking for colour. Just patience.
Sprinkle the flour over the softened leeks and stir it through for a minute or so until it smells biscuity and has coated everything. Pour in the milk gradually, a good splash at a time, stirring constantly. It will seize up and look alarming at first. Keep going. Keep stirring. Each addition of milk loosens it, and after a few minutes you'll have a smooth, creamy sauce that coats the back of a spoon. Stir in the mustard, a grating of nutmeg, and about three quarters of the cheddar. Season well. Taste it. The sauce should be savoury and full, with a gentle mustard warmth underneath. If it tastes bland, it needs more salt. Be brave with it.
Set the oven to 200C/180C fan. Tip the drained pasta and broccoli back into the sauce and fold everything together gently. The shells should be well coated, the broccoli distributed throughout, the leeks threaded through like soft green ribbons. If the sauce seems thick, add a splash of the reserved pasta water. Pour it all into a baking dish, something ceramic or enamel that you don't mind bringing to the table. Scatter the remaining cheddar and the Parmesan over the top.
Bake for twenty to twenty-five minutes, until the top is golden and blistered in patches, the edges are bubbling, and the cheese has formed a crust that crackles when you press it with the back of a spoon. Let it sit for five minutes before serving. Not because you want to wait, but because the sauce needs a moment to settle and thicken. Serve it from the dish, straight onto warm plates. A green salad alongside, if you like, but it doesn't need much.
1 serving (about 440g)
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