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The cabbage slaw of the Alto Adige, where Austrian traditions meet Italian restraint. Caraway seeds give it character, vinegar gives it brightness, and time gives it depth.
The first useful thing to know about Italian cooking is that, as such, it actually doesn't exist. What you find are the regional cuisines of the peninsula, each shaped by geography, history, and the people who have passed through. In the Alto Adige, along the Austrian border, the traditions are as much Tyrolean as Italian. The language spoken at kitchen tables is often German. The flavors lean toward the north.
This cabbage salad is a perfect example. Caraway seeds appear constantly in Alto Adige cooking, a remnant of centuries under Habsburg rule. They belong in bread, in pork dishes, and in this simple slaw that accompanies roasted meats and sausages. An Italian from Naples would not recognize it as part of the national cuisine. A farmer from Bolzano would tell you it is simply what they eat.
The technique is straightforward: shred the cabbage fine, salt it to draw out water, dress it simply. What you keep out matters. There is no garlic. No mayonnaise. No herbs to distract from the clean flavors. The sugar is barely perceptible, only enough to balance the sharpness of the vinegar. This is Alpine restraint applied to a vegetable that benefits from directness.
Cavolo cappuccio in insalata traces to the Alto Adige, or Südtirol, a region that belonged to Austria until 1919 and retains its Germanic culinary heritage to this day. Caraway seeds, called kümmel in the local dialect, arrived with the Habsburgs and never left. The salad appears on tables from Bolzano to Merano as a standard accompaniment to speck, canederli, and roasted pork.
Quantity
1 medium head (about 2 pounds)
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| green cabbage | 1 medium head (about 2 pounds) |
| fine sea salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| white wine vinegar | 3 tablespoons |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| caraway seeds | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 4 tablespoons |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Remove any bruised or wilted outer leaves from the cabbage. Cut it into quarters through the core. Remove the tough white core from each quarter with diagonal cuts. You want only the tender leaves.
Slice each cabbage quarter crosswise into the thinnest possible shreds. A sharp knife and patience produce better results than any gadget. The shreds should be fine enough to wilt slightly under the salt but sturdy enough to retain some crunch. Place them in a large bowl.
Toss the shredded cabbage with the salt, working it through with your hands. Let it rest for 15 minutes. The salt draws moisture from the cabbage and begins to tenderize the fibers. You will see liquid pool at the bottom of the bowl. This is correct.
In a small bowl, combine the vinegar and sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves completely. Add the caraway seeds and let them sit in the vinegar while the cabbage rests. The seeds will release their aroma into the liquid.
Take handfuls of the salted cabbage and squeeze firmly to extract as much liquid as possible. The cabbage should feel limp but not waterlogged. Discard the liquid. Return the squeezed cabbage to the bowl.
Pour the vinegar mixture over the cabbage. Add the olive oil. Toss thoroughly to distribute the dressing evenly. Grind black pepper over all and toss again. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The salt from the first step should be sufficient, but taste to be certain.
Let the dressed salad rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before serving. This allows the flavors to marry and the cabbage to absorb the dressing. The salad improves over the first few hours and holds well for several days.
1 serving (about 145g)
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