
Chef Isabel
Aguaillo de la Sierra de Cadiz
Aguaillo is from the Sierra de Cadiz: cold water, stale bread, garlic, oil and vinegar, closer to a field drink than a bowl of soup, and sharp enough to wake you in the heat.
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Caricos Montañeses belong to Cantabria: small red beans from the Cabuérniga valleys, stewed low and steady with pimentón and cumin until the broth turns creamy.
Caricos Montañeses are Cantabria's red bean stew, not cocido montañés and not a fabada in another coat. The beans are the point: small, round, reddish caricos from the valleys around Cabuérniga, with thin skins and a creamy inside when you treat them gently.
The method that decides the dish is the simmer. Soak the beans well, start them in cold water, and keep the pot at a quiet tremble, never a hard boil. Boil them hard and the skins split, the broth goes rough, and you've lost the thing that makes caricos so good. Low heat gives you whole beans in a thick, brick-red broth scented with pimentón and a little cumin.
If you can't find true caricos where you are, use small dried red beans, cranberry beans, or borlotti. They won't be as delicate, and they may take longer, but the dish still works if you soak them and keep the heat kind. No hace falta haber pisado España. Con buenos ingredientes y paciencia, it comes out.
In my Margin for this one I wrote only this: do not hurry the bean. It sounds too plain, but that's the recipe. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Caricos belong to Cantabria's mountain valleys, especially Cabuérniga and the wider Saja-Nansa country, where small red beans were grown for the slow cocina de cuchara, spoon food, that suited a cold, wet north. Unlike cocido montañés, which is built around berza, white beans, and pork from the matanza, caricos keep the bean at the center and often use only a modest vegetable base with pimentón and cumin. The dish shows the old Cantabrian habit of making a pot meal from what the valley gave: beans that stored well, garden vegetables, olive oil or pork fat when there was any, and time.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight
Quantity
1 large
finely chopped
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
1
white and pale green parts only, finely chopped
Quantity
3 cloves
minced
Quantity
100ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small
soaked, flesh scraped
Quantity
150g
left whole
Quantity
1.8 liters, plus more as needed
Quantity
10g, plus more to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried caricossoaked overnight | 500g |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 large |
| green pepperfinely chopped | 1 |
| carrotfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| leekwhite and pale green parts only, finely chopped | 1 |
| garlicminced | 3 cloves |
| extra virgin olive oil | 100ml |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| sweet pimentón de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cumin | 1/2 teaspoon |
| dried ñora pepper (optional)soaked, flesh scraped | 1 small |
| Spanish chorizo (optional)left whole | 150g |
| cold water | 1.8 liters, plus more as needed |
| fine sea salt | 10g, plus more to taste |
Put the caricos in a large bowl, cover with plenty of cold water, and leave them overnight, 10 to 12 hours. Drain them before cooking. Pésalo, no lo adivines: 500g of dried beans gives you a full family pot, and soaking lets them cook evenly instead of splitting outside while staying chalky inside.
Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over low heat. Add the onion, green pepper, carrot, leek, and a pinch of the measured salt. Cook slowly for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring now and then, until the vegetables are soft, dark gold, and jammy. This sofrito, the slow vegetable base, is where the sweetness comes from. Rush it and the stew tastes thin.
Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute, just until it smells good. Pull the pot off the heat and stir in the pimentón, cumin, and ñora flesh if using. Keep the pimentón away from fierce heat; scorch it and it turns bitter, and there is no good way back from that.
Add the drained caricos, bay leaf, chorizo if using, and 1.8 liters cold water. The water should cover the beans by about 3cm. Bring the pot up slowly over medium heat, skimming any foam that rises. Starting cold gives the beans a gentle climb, which keeps their skins whole.
Lower the heat until the surface only trembles. Cook uncovered or partly covered for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the beans are tender and creamy inside but still holding their shape. If the level drops below the beans, add a small splash of cold water. Do not stir hard with a spoon; move the pot by the handles instead.
When the beans are almost tender, add the remaining salt and cook 15 minutes more. For a thicker broth, take out a ladleful of beans and vegetables, mash them with a fork, and return them to the pot. Slice the chorizo if you used it and put it back. Taste for salt. The broth should be creamy, brick-red, and rounded, not soupy.
Take the pot off the heat and let it rest 15 minutes before serving. Beans always settle after the fire goes out; the broth thickens, the oil rises in small red pools, and the flavor becomes itself. Serve in deep bowls with bread. Tal como se hace allí, plain and useful.
1 serving (about 480g)
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