
Chef Graziella
Carciofi alla Romana
Whole artichokes stuffed with mint and garlic, braised slowly in olive oil until the tough leaves surrender and the heart becomes silk. This is how Romans have eaten artichokes for centuries.
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Artichokes pressed flat and fried twice until the leaves become bronze-gold and shatter at the touch. Four ingredients. Four centuries of technique. The crowning achievement of Roman Jewish cooking.
This is not a recipe for fried artichokes. This is the fried artichoke, the one against which all others are measured. Four ingredients: artichokes, oil, lemon, salt. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in.
The technique is Roman and specifically Jewish Roman, developed in the cramped kitchens of the Ghetto where cooks learned to transform humble vegetables into something transcendent. The double frying creates two textures in one bite: leaves that shatter like glass, hearts that yield like butter. Nothing else achieves this.
Simple does not mean easy. The trimming demands patience and a sharp knife. The frying demands attention and a thermometer. The pressing demands confidence. If you rush, you will have neither crisp leaves nor tender hearts. You will have something forgettable. The artichokes deserve better. So do your guests.
Carciofi alla Giudia emerged from Rome's Jewish Ghetto after Pope Paul IV confined the city's Jews to a walled quarter in 1555. The community's cooks, working with the Roman globe artichokes that grew abundantly in the surrounding countryside, developed this technique of pressing and double-frying that transforms the vegetable into something entirely new. The dish has been served at Passover and other celebrations for over four centuries, and today the restaurants along Via del Portico d'Ottavia still compete for the title of best carciofi in Rome.
Quantity
4 large
Roman variety if available
Quantity
2
Quantity
4 cups
or blend with vegetable oil
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| globe artichokesRoman variety if available | 4 large |
| lemons | 2 |
| extra virgin olive oilor blend with vegetable oil | 4 cups |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze in the juice of both lemons. Drop the squeezed lemon halves into the water as well. This acidulated water prevents the artichokes from oxidizing as you work. Once an artichoke blackens, there is no saving it.
Working with one artichoke at a time, snap off the tough outer leaves by bending them back until they break at the natural point where tender meets tough. Continue removing leaves until you reach the pale yellow-green inner leaves. These are tender enough to eat. Cut off the top third of the artichoke with a sharp knife. Trim the stem, leaving about two inches attached, and peel away the fibrous outer layer with a paring knife or vegetable peeler. The stem, when peeled, is as tender as the heart.
Hold each trimmed artichoke by the stem and bang the head firmly against the counter several times to loosen the leaves. Then spread the leaves apart with your fingers, opening the artichoke like a flower. The more you open it, the better it fries. Place immediately in the lemon water. Repeat with remaining artichokes. Let them soak for at least 30 minutes.
Remove the artichokes from the water and shake vigorously to remove excess moisture. Pat completely dry with clean towels, getting between the leaves. Water and hot oil are enemies. Any moisture remaining will cause dangerous spattering and prevent proper crisping.
In a deep pot or Dutch oven, heat the oil to 300°F (150°C). The oil should be deep enough to submerge the artichokes completely. Lower one or two artichokes into the oil, stem side up. Fry gently for 10 to 15 minutes, turning occasionally, until the hearts are tender when pierced with a thin knife. The leaves will be pale gold but not yet crisp. Remove to a wire rack set over a sheet pan.
While still warm, place each artichoke head-down on the counter and press firmly with the palm of your hand or the bottom of a heavy pan. The leaves will spread outward into a flat, flower-like shape. Do not be timid. You want them flattened. Some leaves may break. This is acceptable.
Increase the oil temperature to 350°F (175°C). Return the pressed artichokes to the oil, one or two at a time, and fry until deeply golden brown and the leaves are crisp and shatteringly crunchy, 2 to 4 minutes. The edges of the leaves will darken. Listen for the sizzling to quiet, which indicates the moisture has cooked out.
Remove to fresh paper towels or a wire rack. Immediately sprinkle with flaky sea salt while the oil still glistens. Serve at once with lemon wedges alongside. The leaves should shatter like glass when you bite them. The heart should be creamy and tender. There is no keeping these warm. There is no saving them for later. They exist only in the moment between pan and mouth.
1 serving (about 165g)
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