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Created by Chef Lupita
Guerrero's Costa Chica working-day caldo, beef shank simmered until tender with chile costeño, guajillo, yuca, ripe plátano macho, hoja santa, epazote, and masa chochoyotes.
Guerrero, Costa Chica, Cuajinicuilapa. Put your finger there first. This caldo belongs to the Afro-Mexican corridor that runs along the Pacific through Costa Chica Guerrero and Costa Chica Oaxaca, through towns like Cuajinicuilapa, Pinotepa, and the roads that lead toward Chacahua. Esto no es comida de un solo México. This is a 32-state cuisine, and this pot has a coast, a people, and a memory.
The beef shank gives the broth its body. The ripe plátano macho gives sweetness without turning the pot soft. The yuca comes from the humid coastal pantry, the hoja santa perfumes the caldo like anise and wet earth, and the chile rojo must taste like Guerrero: chile costeño for regional bite, guajillo for color and roundness. You toast the chiles, soak them, blend them, then fry the paste in manteca de cerdo before it enters the broth. No me vengas con atajos. Raw chile puree thrown into water tastes like laziness.
I learned versions of this kind of coastal caldo from women who cooked at noon because the day had already been working since sunrise. They did not call it fancy. They called it food. A bowl on the table, black-and-tan pottery from Cuajinicuilapa or Pinotepa if the house had it, warm tortillas in a cloth, lime at the side, and the chochoyotes half-swollen with broth. The technique is practical: build the broth from bones, wake the chiles on the comal, let the plantain sweeten the pot only at the end so it holds its shape. Así se hace y punto.
Quantity
3 pounds
bone-in, cut into thick rounds
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
12 cups, plus more as needed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef shankbone-in, cut into thick rounds | 3 pounds |
| beef short ribs or beef neck bones | 1 pound |
| cold water | 12 cups, plus more as needed |
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