Chef Graziella
Cima alla Genovese
Genoa's great stuffed veal, sewn shut and poached until the filling sets into a mosaic of eggs, peas, and pine nuts. Served cold, sliced thin, it rewards every moment of effort.
Culinary Explorer
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Calamari Ripieni in Umido
Created by
Squid stuffed with their own tentacles and braised in tomato until the flesh turns silky and yielding. This is the home cooking of the Ligurian coast, where nothing goes to waste and patience is rewarded.
Main Dishes
Italian, Ligurian
Dinner Party
Make Ahead
45 min
Active Time
45 min cook•1 hr 30 min total
Yield4 servings
Stuffed squid is fishermen's food. The body of the squid becomes its own vessel, filled with the chopped tentacles that would otherwise be tossed aside or eaten separately. Nothing is wasted. This is the philosophy of the Ligurian coast, where the catch must stretch and every part of the creature serves a purpose.
The preparation is straightforward but unforgiving. Squid follows a perverse rule that every Italian cook learns early: cook it very briefly over high heat, or braise it slowly for the better part of an hour. Anything between produces rubber. There is no middle ground. The proteins seize, then slowly relax again. You must choose your path and commit to it.
I have watched tourists in seaside trattorias send back perfectly cooked calamari ripieni because they expected the bouncy texture of fried calamari rings. This is something else entirely. Properly braised stuffed squid yields to the fork like butter. The filling absorbs the tomato braising liquid. The garlic, used with restraint, perfumes without overwhelming. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in.
Stuffed squid appears throughout the Mediterranean, but the tomato-braised version belongs particularly to Liguria and the coastal towns stretching toward Tuscany. Fishermen's wives developed these preparations to make use of the entire catch, stuffing the bodies with whatever was at hand: stale bread, the squid's own tentacles, wild herbs from the hillsides. The dish required nothing expensive, only time and the understanding that the sea provides abundantly if you know how to use what it offers.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
medium squid
Quantity
8 (about 2 pounds total)
bodies 5-6 inches long
fine dry breadcrumbs
Quantity
1/2 cup
flat-leaf parsley
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped fine
garlic cloves
Quantity
2
minced very fine
large egg
Quantity
1
beaten
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
3 tablespoons, divided
kosher salt
Quantity
to taste
black pepper
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
dry white wine
Quantity
1/2 cup
San Marzano tomatoes
Quantity
1 can (14 ounces)
crushed by hand
red pepper flakes (optional)
Quantity
pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| medium squidbodies 5-6 inches long | 8 (about 2 pounds total) |
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 1/2 cup |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped fine | 2 tablespoons |
| garlic clovesminced very fine | 2 |
| large eggbeaten | 1 |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons, divided |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| dry white wine | 1/2 cup |
| San Marzano tomatoescrushed by hand | 1 can (14 ounces) |
| red pepper flakes (optional) | pinch |
Equipment Needed
- •Large skillet or sauté pan with lid (12-inch)
- •Wooden toothpicks
- •Sharp knife for cleaning squid
Instructions
- 1
Clean the squid
Hold a squid body in one hand and pull the head and tentacles away with the other. They will come out together, trailing the innards. Reach inside the body and pull out the transparent quill, which resembles a piece of plastic. Rinse the body inside and out under cold running water, peeling away the mottled skin if you wish (it is edible but some find the texture objectionable). Cut the tentacles from the head just below the eyes. Squeeze out and discard the hard beak at the center of the tentacles. Repeat with remaining squid. Pat everything dry.
Your fishmonger may clean the squid for you. Ask. But know that truly fresh squid, cleaned yourself moments before cooking, has a sweetness that pre-cleaned squid from a case cannot match. - 2
Prepare the stuffing
Chop the tentacles fine but not to a paste. You want texture. In a bowl, combine the chopped tentacles, breadcrumbs, parsley, and garlic. Add the beaten egg and one tablespoon of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Mix until the stuffing holds together when pressed. It should be moist but not wet.
- 3
Stuff the squid
Using a small spoon or your fingers, fill each squid body two-thirds full with stuffing. Do not overfill. The squid will shrink as it cooks, and overstuffed bodies split. Secure the opening of each squid with a wooden toothpick, weaving it through both sides like a seamstress closing a seam.
The temptation to stuff them full is strong. Resist it. A squid stuffed to bursting will burst. Leave room for the filling to expand and the body to contract. - 4
Brown the squid
In a pan large enough to hold all the squid in a single layer, warm the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the stuffed squid. Cook, turning once, until lightly golden on both sides, about two minutes per side. The squid will stiffen and become opaque. Remove to a plate.
- 5
Build the braising liquid
Pour the wine into the pan and let it sizzle, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Let it reduce by half, about two minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes, a pinch of salt, pepper, and the red pepper flakes if using. Stir and bring to a simmer.
- 6
Braise until tender
Return the squid to the pan, nestling them into the sauce. Reduce the heat to low. The sauce should barely simmer, with only occasional bubbles breaking the surface. Cover and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, turning the squid once halfway through. The squid is done when a knife slides easily into the thickest part of the body.
Squid follows a perverse rule: cook it two minutes or two hours, but nothing in between. Brief high heat keeps it tender. Long slow braising makes it tender again. The middle ground produces rubber. - 7
Rest and serve
Remove from heat and let rest, covered, for five minutes. Remove the toothpicks. Taste the sauce and adjust salt if needed. Place two squid on each warm plate and spoon the sauce generously over and around. Serve immediately with crusty bread to collect every drop of the braising liquid.
Chef Tips
- •Buy squid with clear eyes and flesh that smells of the sea, not of ammonia. If your fishmonger cannot tell you when the squid arrived, find another fishmonger.
- •The garlic here is two cloves, minced fine and distributed through half a cup of stuffing. This is appropriate restraint. Those who would add more misunderstand the dish.
- •Wooden toothpicks work better than metal skewers, which conduct heat and can tear the delicate flesh. Count them before cooking and count them again before serving.
- •The braising liquid, reduced slightly if too thin, makes an excellent sauce for pasta the following day. Toss it with spaghetti and thank me.
Advance Preparation
- •The squid can be cleaned and the stuffing prepared several hours ahead. Refrigerate separately. Stuff just before cooking.
- •The completed dish reheats gently the next day, though the texture of the stuffing softens further. Some prefer it this way.
- •The braising liquid freezes well for one month. The stuffed squid do not freeze successfully.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 300g)
Calories
405 calories
Total Fat
13 g
Saturated Fat
2 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
10 g
Cholesterol
575 mg
Sodium
565 mg
Total Carbohydrates
23 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
40 g
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