Calamares Rellenos a la Mallorquina

Calamares rellenos a la mallorquina are Mallorca's stuffed squid, known on the island as calamars farcits. The bodies carry a sweet-savoury filling of pork, their own chopped tentacles, pine nuts and raisins, then cook gently in tomato, brandy and a thickening picada of almonds and fried bread. That mixture of sea, matança pork and dried fruit is the island's mark. This is Mallorcan, not stuffed squid without a surname.

The step that decides the dish is simple: fill each body only two-thirds full and pin it shut. Squid contracts as it cooks while the pork and bread expand. Pack it tightly and the filling escapes into the sauce, which is a rather expensive way to make meatballs. Leave room, keep the braise quiet, and every squid stays whole. Siempre sale, si lo sigues, it turns out if you follow it.

The sauce begins with a proper sofrito, the slow onion and tomato base. Cook the onion low until dark gold and sweet, then cook the tomato until thick enough to leave the oil showing at the edges. Brandy gives warmth, not harshness, and the almond picada binds the sauce during the final minutes. I serve the squid whole for a family table, cutting one open so everyone can see the pine nuts and raisins inside.

If fresh medium squid are scarce, use frozen cleaned squid with intact tubes and separate tentacles. Thaw them slowly in the refrigerator and dry them well. They release more water and finish a little softer, so cook the chopped tentacles until the pan is dry and give the braise another five minutes if needed. No hace falta haber pisado España. The margin in my notebook says only, "leave them room," and here that is advice worth keeping.