Caballeros Pobres Yucatecos

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy skillet or cast iron pan for frying
• •Wide saucepan for the almíbar
• •Wire rack set over a sheet pan
• •Slotted spatula or kitchen spider
• •Hand mixer or whisk for the capeado

Instructions

1. 1

   Infuse the milk

   In a small saucepan, combine the milk, the broken cinnamon stick, the 1/4 cup of sugar, and the 2-inch piece of orange peel. Warm over low heat until the sugar dissolves and the milk smells of cinnamon and citrus, about five minutes. Do not let it boil. Pull it off the heat and let it sit while you build the syrup. The milk needs to be warm but not hot when the bread goes in, or the crumb falls apart.

   Use canela de Ceylán, the soft Mexican cinnamon that flakes apart in your fingers. Cassia bark, the hard stuff sold as cinnamon in most supermarkets, is too aggressive for this syrup and will overpower the cloves.
2. 2

   Build the almíbar

   In a wide saucepan, combine 1 1/2 cups water, 1 1/2 cups sugar, the two cinnamon sticks, the cloves, and the 3-inch orange peel. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook for fifteen to twenty minutes, until the syrup thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add the raisins in the last five minutes so they plump but do not turn to mush. Off the heat, stir in the jerez. The alcohol carries the spice into the bread later. No me vengas con atajos, do not skip the sherry. It is what makes this caballeros pobres and not French toast.

3. 3

   Soak the bread

   Strain the infused milk into a shallow bowl, discarding the cinnamon and peel. Lay the bread slices in the warm milk in a single layer. Soak for about thirty seconds per side. The bread should be saturated but still hold its shape when you lift it. Day-old bolillo is the right bread because fresh bread turns to porridge. If you only have fresh, leave the slices out uncovered overnight or dry them in a low oven for fifteen minutes.

4. 4

   Make the capeado

   In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites with the pinch of salt until they hold soft peaks. This is the same capeado technique the señoras of Mérida use for chiles rellenos. One at a time, beat the yolks into the whites until the mixture is uniform and pale yellow, still airy. Do this just before frying. A capeado that sits collapses, and you only get one shot at this step.

5. 5

   Fry in lard

   Heat the lard in a heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers, about 350°F. La manteca es el sabor. The lard gives the caballeros a clean, even browning that vegetable oil cannot match. Working one at a time, lift a milk-soaked slice with a slotted spatula, dip it into the egg until completely coated, and slide it into the lard. Fry two or three slices at a time without crowding. Cook for about two minutes per side, until the capeado puffs and turns deep gold. Lift to a wire rack to drain. Do not put them on paper towels or they will steam from below and lose their crisp shell.

6. 6

   Bathe in the syrup

   Warm the almíbar over low heat if it has cooled. Arrange the fried caballeros in a single layer in a shallow ceramic dish. Spoon the warm syrup over them generously, distributing the raisins across the top. Let them sit for at least ten minutes before serving so the syrup soaks into the egg crown and the bread underneath. They can sit for an hour. They can sit until tomorrow. They only get better as they drink the syrup.

7. 7

   Serve

   Plate one or two caballeros per person in a shallow bowl with a generous pool of the syrup, the plumped raisins, and a scatter of toasted almonds. Dust with ground canela. In Yucatán these come out at the end of Christmas dinner, at Hanal Pixán, at any meal that calls for a sweet ending with a little ceremony. Así se hace y punto.

Chef Tips

• •Day-old bolillo or pan francés is non-negotiable. Fresh bread falls apart in the milk and the slice will not hold its shape through the fry. If your bread is too fresh, dry the slices uncovered overnight or in a 250°F oven for fifteen minutes.
• •Lard gives the cleanest fry and the most authentic flavor. If you cannot find good manteca, a neutral oil like canola will work, but the caballeros will not taste the same. This is a compromise, not an upgrade.
• •Jerez seco, the dry Spanish sherry sold in Mexican markets as cooking wine, is the traditional finish. Do not substitute rum, brandy, or worse, vanilla extract. The sherry carries the spice of the syrup in a way nothing else does.

Advance Preparation

• •The almíbar can be made up to three days ahead and refrigerated. Warm gently before serving so the syrup pours easily.
• •The finished caballeros pobres can sit in their syrup for up to two days, refrigerated. The bread keeps absorbing the syrup and the flavor only deepens. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 270g)