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Field peas simmered slowly with a smoky ham hock, joined by ribbons of collard greens that melt into the pot liquor, a bowl of Southern tradition that nourishes body and spirit alike.
Black-eyed peas and greens belong to winter. They arrive at the market when the cold settles in, when the fields lie fallow except for these hardy crops that thrive in the chill. This is food that understands its season.
The tradition of eating black-eyed peas on New Year's Day stretches back generations in the South. Peas for prosperity, greens for wealth, pork for progress. I do not know if the luck is real. I know the nourishment is. A pot of peas simmered with smoked pork and tender greens has sustained families through hard winters and lean times. It asks for almost nothing: dried legumes, a ham hock, whatever greens look alive at the market, time.
At the farmers' market, look for dried black-eyed peas from the current harvest. They should feel heavy in your hand, with smooth unblemished skins. Old peas, the ones that have sat on a shelf for years, take forever to soften and never taste quite right. For greens, choose bunches with leaves that spring back when touched, deep green without yellowing or wilting. Collards are traditional, but turnip greens bring a pleasant bite. Use what looks best.
The technique here is patience, nothing more. You build a pot of richly flavored liquid, cook the peas until they yield, add the greens until they surrender. The smoked pork does most of the work. Your job is to get out of the way and let time do what time does.
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1 (about 1 pound)
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4
smashed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
8 cups
Quantity
1 large bunch (about 1 1/2 pounds)
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried black-eyed peas | 1 pound |
| smoked ham hock | 1 (about 1 pound) |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| garlic clovessmashed | 4 |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| crushed red pepper flakes | 1/4 teaspoon |
| water or chicken stock | 8 cups |
| collard greens or turnip greens | 1 large bunch (about 1 1/2 pounds) |
| apple cider vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| hot sauce (optional) | for serving |
Spread the dried peas on a rimmed baking sheet and pick through them. Look for small stones, shriveled peas, and any debris that does not belong. Rinse them in a colander under cold running water until the water runs clear. Dried peas from a farmer who grows them with care will need less sorting, but always check.
Place the ham hock in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot. Add the diced onion, smashed garlic, bay leaves, salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Pour in the water or stock. The liquid should cover the ham hock by at least two inches. Bring everything to a boil over medium-high heat.
Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered for 45 minutes to an hour, allowing the smoked pork to release its flavor into the liquid. The kitchen will smell of smoke and promise. This is pot liquor in the making, the foundation of Southern cooking.
Add the rinsed black-eyed peas to the pot. Stir once to distribute them evenly. Return to a gentle simmer and cook for 45 minutes to an hour, until the peas are tender but still hold their shape. They should yield easily when pressed between your fingers but not turn to mush.
While the peas simmer, strip the collard or turnip greens from their tough center stems. Stack several leaves, roll them into a cigar shape, and slice crosswise into ribbons about an inch wide. Wash the ribbons in a large bowl of cold water, agitating them to release any grit. Lift the greens out and drain. Repeat until no sand settles at the bottom.
When the peas are nearly tender, add the greens to the pot in handfuls, pressing each batch down before adding the next. They will seem like far too much at first. They will cook down to almost nothing. Stir to submerge them in the pot liquor.
Continue simmering until the greens are silky and tender, another 20 to 30 minutes. Remove the ham hock and shred any meat from the bone, discarding the skin and fat. Return the meat to the pot. Stir in the apple cider vinegar. Taste. Adjust the salt. The vinegar brightens everything, cutting through the richness of the pork.
Ladle the peas and greens into deep bowls, making sure each serving gets plenty of pot liquor. The liquid is not waste; it is the soul of the dish. Serve with hot sauce at the table and cornbread alongside. Remove the bay leaves before serving or fish them out as you go.
1 serving (about 260g)
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