Filets de Soles à la Hongroise

Filets de Soles à la Hongroise (folded sole fillets with paprika, tomato, and cream) teaches one essential division of labor: the fish poaches gently, then leaves the pan before its cooking liquor is reduced hard. The liquor becomes the sauce, but the sole must never wait in it while that happens.

The original entry assumed a fish fumet never off the fire, a saucier free to reduce the liquor, and another hand to keep the arranged sole warm. It calls for no salamander, because this sauce is coated, not gratinéed. At home, a small saucepan, a covered skillet, and a warmed platter perform those jobs for four people. The extra hands were brigade scaffolding and can go; the proportions, gentle poach, reduction, and cream finish are the dish and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.

The decisive step comes after you lift out the sole: reduce the tomato and onion liquor until it has real body before adding the cream. Stop too soon and the sauce runs watery; leave the fish in while you wait and it turns dry. Separate those two heats and the Hongroise nearly finishes itself.