The Frying of Fish

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •5 to 6-quart heavy straight-sided Dutch oven or frying pot with fitted lid
• •Clip-on deep-fry thermometer
• •Wire skimmer or spider
• •Wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet
• •Long tongs and a splatter screen

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the fish

   Check every piece before heating the oil. Thin fillets and genuinely small whole fish need no gashing. If a small whole fish is noticeably thick through the shoulder, score both sides toward the bone in a close crosshatch so heat can enter; for a small flatfish cooked whole, partly loosen the two underside fillets along the backbone instead. A large fish or thick steak does not belong in this preparation. Set a wire rack over a rimmed tray and warm the oven to 200°F (95°C) for holding the briefest possible time.

2. 2

   Choose the coating

   For the standard friture, dissolve 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 6 g) salt in the cold milk and steep the fish for 15 minutes in the refrigerator. Lift it out and let the excess milk drain for 2 minutes, but do not rub the surface dry; the slight tack is what holds the flour. Whitebait is the classical exception and goes directly into flour without milk. For panés à l’anglaise (breaded in the English manner), omit the milk. Dust the dry fish lightly with flour, coat it completely in the finished Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), then roll it in the fresh white breadcrumbs and press the coating gently with the flat of a knife. The old crisscross marking was decorative brigade work and can go; firm adhesion cannot.

3. 3

   Heat the frying fat

   Use the safe deep-fat arrangement set out in Fryings (No. 262): pour the oil into a bone-dry, heavy, straight-sided pot, making certain the pot is no more than half full. Clip on the thermometer, keep a fitted lid within reach, and heat the oil gradually to 350°F (175°C). The empty space above the oil contains the surge when food enters, so it is protection, not wasted capacity. Never leave the pot unattended, never move it while hot, and never bring water near the oil.

4. 4

   Fry the parsley

   Make certain the parsley is completely dry. Lower a small handful into the 350°F (175°C) oil with a wire skimmer and fry for 10 to 15 seconds, until the leaves turn darker green and crisp. It will spit sharply at first, so keep your face and hands back. If the splattering becomes fierce, lower the heat and wait without reaching across the pot. Lift the parsley to the rack, season it with a pinch of the remaining salt, skim away loose leaves, then raise the oil to 375°F (190°C).

5. 5

   Flour and fry

   Put the flour in a wide shallow dish. For the milk-steeped fish, dredge only enough pieces for one batch and shake off every loose veil of flour; a thin, even coat crisps, while clotted flour turns pasty. Lower the fish away from you into the 375°F (190°C) oil without crowding the pot. Keep the oil between 355°F and 375°F (180°C and 190°C), turning the fish once, until the coating is firm and bronze and the flesh is opaque at its thickest point, about 2 to 3 minutes for thin fillets or 3 to 4 minutes for small whole fish. Breaded pieces should be an even deep gold. Lift each batch to the wire rack and salt it immediately. If the first pieces emerge pale and greasy, stop adding fish and restore the oil to 375°F (190°C), then refry those pieces for 15 to 20 seconds. Ça se rattrape. Hold finished fish uncovered in the warm oven for no more than 8 minutes, and return the oil fully to temperature before the next batch.

   A sudden temperature drop means the pot is crowded. Fry fewer pieces at once; more batches produce better fish and are safer to manage.
6. 6

   Garnish and serve

   Arrange the fish in a loose single layer on a warm platter, never in a covered heap where trapped moisture can soften the crust. Tuck in the fried parsley and trimmed lemon halves, then carry it straight to the table. The lemon is the sauce here, bright against the hot crust and clean fish. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose by thickness before prestige. Smelts, small whiting, sardines, thin sole, and thin flounder suit friture; a thick cod loin wants roasting or poaching. Technique first, always.
• •The salted milk is not a batter. It seasons the fish lightly, softens any strong aroma, and leaves enough moisture for a fine coat of flour to cling. Let the fish drain well or the flour will form patches.
• •Refined sunflower and peanut oils tolerate the required heat without imposing much flavor. Once the oil is completely cold, strain it through a fine sieve and store it sealed in a cool, dark place; discard it if it smells stale, darkens heavily, or foams before the fish enters.
• •Serve with a cold Muscadet or another dry Atlantic white. Its brisk acidity handles the fried crust and lemon without trampling the delicate fish.

Advance Preparation

• •Clean and portion the fish up to 6 hours ahead, then keep it covered and cold. Do not steep it in salted milk until 15 minutes before frying.
• •Wash the parsley several hours ahead and dry it thoroughly between clean towels. Trim the lemons and arrange the flour, rack, thermometer, and tools before the oil goes over heat.
• •If choosing the breaded variation, have the finished Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174) ready before heating the oil. Frying itself waits for the table; reheated friture loses the crisp crust that defines it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 210g)