Chef Juliette
Ordinary or White Consommé
Beef shin, lean beef, and fowl begin in cold water and rise slowly toward a tremble. Skim before the boil, and you learn the quiet discipline that gives every clear French broth its backbone.
Culinary Explorer
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American Relishes
Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 377, American Relishes, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Relishes à l’Américaine balance firm fruit, pearl onions, and gherkins in cinnamon-scented sweet-sour vinegar, with cayenne at the finish. The lesson is timing: each piece must keep its own bite.
Sauces & Condiments
French
Make Ahead
Picnic
35 min
Active Time
25 min cook•13 hr total
YieldAbout 2 quarts (four 1-pint jars)
Relishes à l’Américaine (American sweet-sour preserves) teach the discipline of staggered cooking. The vinegar must be bold, but pear, apple, plum, onion, and gherkin must still taste and feel like themselves. Before you touch the pan, know this one thing: don't add them all at once. The syrup can be corrected; fruit cooked to softness cannot be made firm again.
The classical service could draw the relish and its special cinnamon biscuits from separate pantry work, then keep a replenished dish on the table throughout the meal. Your honest equivalent is one nonreactive pot, four refrigerator jars, and crisp cinnamon biscuits supplied separately. Here the batch is scaled to about two quarts and cooked in one pot. The separate brigade handling is scaffolding; vinegar, sugar, cinnamon, cayenne, and the careful order of cooking are the dish and must stay.
When it is right, clear amber liquid clings lightly to jewel-like pieces of fruit, the onions yield without collapsing, and the gherkins remain crisp under the teeth. Stagger the additions and stop while every piece still offers resistance. That is the step that decides the relish.
Relishes à l’Américaine belong not to Lyon, Normandy, or another French region, but to the classical French hors-d’œuvre table: the title records how that kitchen understood an American sweet pickle. Its entry explicitly compares the mixture of fruit, onions, gherkins, sugar, cinnamon, vinegar, and cayenne with Italian aceto-dolce. Unlike a small pickle removed after the opening course, this relish remained on the table throughout the meal and was accompanied by cinnamon biscuits.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
firm pears
Quantity
2 medium, about 1¼ cups (300 ml / 200 g) prepared
peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch pieces
tart apple
Quantity
1 large, about 1¼ cups (300 ml / 160 g) prepared
peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch pieces
firm red plums
Quantity
3, about 1 cup (240 ml / 170 g) prepared
pitted and cut into ½-inch pieces
small pearl onions
Quantity
20, about 1 cup (240 ml / 160 g)
peeled and left whole
fresh gherkins or small Kirby pickling cucumbers
Quantity
4 to 5, about 1½ cups (360 ml / 225 g)
cut into ¼-inch rounds
white wine vinegar with at least 5% acidity
Quantity
3 cups (720 ml / 720 g)
divided
granulated sugar
Quantity
1½ cups (360 ml / 300 g)
cinnamon sticks
Quantity
3
ground cayenne
Quantity
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
crisp cinnamon biscuits
Quantity
12 biscuits (about 150 g)
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| firm pearspeeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch pieces | 2 medium, about 1¼ cups (300 ml / 200 g) prepared |
| tart applepeeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch pieces | 1 large, about 1¼ cups (300 ml / 160 g) prepared |
| firm red plumspitted and cut into ½-inch pieces | 3, about 1 cup (240 ml / 170 g) prepared |
| small pearl onionspeeled and left whole | 20, about 1 cup (240 ml / 160 g) |
| fresh gherkins or small Kirby pickling cucumberscut into ¼-inch rounds | 4 to 5, about 1½ cups (360 ml / 225 g) |
| white wine vinegar with at least 5% aciditydivided | 3 cups (720 ml / 720 g) |
| granulated sugar | 1½ cups (360 ml / 300 g) |
| cinnamon sticks | 3 |
| ground cayenne | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
| crisp cinnamon biscuitsfor serving | 12 biscuits (about 150 g) |
Equipment Needed
- •5-quart (4.75-liter) nonreactive saucepan or enameled Dutch oven
- •Four clean 1-pint (475 ml) heatproof jars with lids
- •Slotted spoon
- •Wide-mouth jar funnel
Instructions
- 1
Prepare jars and produce
Wash four 1-pint jars and their lids in hot soapy water, rinse them well, and keep the jars warm. Blanch the pearl onions in simmering water for 3 minutes, drain them, trim the root ends, and slip off the skins. Dry the pot, then prepare the pears, apple, plums, and gherkins, keeping each kind separate so it can enter the vinegar at the proper moment.
Cut the pieces evenly. Small scraps soften before large cubes have taken up the vinegar, and no amount of stirring can make unequal pieces cook together. - 2
Build the aigre-doux
Reserve ¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g) of the vinegar. Combine the remaining vinegar with the sugar, cinnamon sticks, and cayenne in a 5-quart nonreactive pot. Bring the aigre-doux, the sweet-sour preserving liquid, to a gentle boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for 5 minutes. It should smell rounded and spicy but remain loose, not sticky. If it begins coating the pot like candy, take it off the heat and stir in a spoonful of the reserved vinegar.
- 3
Poach in stages
Add the blanched onions and simmer gently for 6 minutes. Add the pears and cook for 4 minutes, then add the apple and cook for 2 minutes. Finally add the plums and gherkins, return the liquid just to a simmer, and remove the pot from the heat. Begin each timing when the liquid returns to its gentle simmer. If the plum skins start slipping or the apple edges begin collapsing, lift those pieces out immediately and spread them on a plate while the firmer ingredients finish. Ça se rattrape. You cannot make softened fruit firm again, but you can stop it going further.
- 4
Reduce and pack
Using a slotted spoon, divide the fruit, onions, and gherkins evenly among the warm jars. Leave the cinnamon sticks in the pot and return the liquid to a lively simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, until it looks clear and lightly glossy but still pours freely. Stir in whatever remains of the reserved vinegar and simmer for 1 minute. Remove the cinnamon sticks, pour the hot liquid over the relish, and leave ½ inch (1 cm) of headspace. Release trapped bubbles with a clean knife, cap the jars, cool them on a towel for no more than 2 hours, and refrigerate. These are refrigerator relishes, not a shelf-stable preserve.
- 5
Serve through the meal
Chill the relish for at least 12 hours before serving so the cinnamon settles into the fruit and the cayenne reaches the finish rather than the first bite. Spoon a modest amount with its amber liquid into a clear serving bowl and accompany it with the crisp cinnamon biscuits. Replenish the bowl from the chilled jar as the meal goes on, returning leftovers to the refrigerator within 2 hours. À table!
Chef Tips
- •The source calls for diverse kinds of fruit rather than binding the cook to one list. Keep the total prepared fruit near 530 g; firm apricots or seedless grapes may replace the plums, but soft berries collapse and muddy the vinegar.
- •Fresh gherkins are small cucumbers, not already pickled cornichons. When they are unavailable, firm unwaxed Kirby pickling cucumbers are the honest equivalent. Avoid large salad cucumbers with watery centres.
- •Choose fruit just short of full ripeness. A plum ready to drip down your wrist is splendid for eating but too soft for this pot; the relish needs fruit that holds its edges.
- •Serve the relish cool rather than icy beside pâté, cold pork, ham, or firm cheese. The cinnamon biscuit is not decoration: its dry sweetness meets the vinegar and cayenne beautifully.
Advance Preparation
- •Make the relish at least 12 hours ahead; after 2 days in the refrigerator, the vinegar tastes rounder and the cinnamon reaches the centre of the fruit.
- •Keep the sealed jars refrigerated and use the relish within 3 weeks. The source provides no tested water-bath canning process, so these jars must not be stored at room temperature.
- •The cinnamon biscuits may be bought or baked separately several days ahead and kept airtight until the picnic or meal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 180g)
Calories
200 calories
Total Fat
3 g
Saturated Fat
1 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
1 g
Cholesterol
10 mg
Sodium
65 mg
Total Carbohydrates
42 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
35 g
Protein
1 g
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