Chef Juliette
Ordinary or White Consommé
Beef shin, lean beef, and fowl begin in cold water and rise slowly toward a tremble. Skim before the boil, and you learn the quiet discipline that gives every clear French broth its backbone.
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Plain Olives
Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 366, Plain Olives, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Fleshy, firm green olives served exactly as cured, with no oil, herbs, or citrus. Selection is the whole craft: choose clean fruit, correct excessive salt, and stop.
Sauces & Condiments
French
Make Ahead
Picnic
10 min
Active Time
0 min cook•30 min total
Yield4 hors-d'œuvre servings
Olives au naturel teach the cleanest discipline in the canon: knowing when choosing is cooking. They should be fleshy, firm, vividly green, and moderately salted. Touching a pan would only spoil the lesson. The one true thing before you begin is this: taste before you empty the jar, because no dressing is coming to disguise a tired olive.
The original entry assumed a well-stocked hors-d'œuvre station able to choose among three or four varieties and set out brigade quantities without further instruction. At home, that scaffolding goes. Choose one excellent variety or a small mixture, then scale the bowl to 300 grams for four people. Selection stays because selection is the dish. No saucier, stockpot, or salamander belongs here; one cook needs only a colander, a towel, and a bowl.
Serve the olives at cool room temperature, dry enough to pick up easily but still supple with brine. If the salt is too fierce, a brief rinse corrects it without turning the olives into a salad. Ça se rattrape. Stop there. The first taste is the step that matters most, because it tells you whether to drain, rinse, or choose another jar.
Olives au naturel belong particularly to the apéritif and hors-d'œuvre tables of Provence and Languedoc, where fruit from Mediterranean groves is cured before it reaches the table. Classical hors-d'œuvre service carried this southern pantry staple throughout France and left it deliberately undressed; plain never means raw, because an olive straight from the tree is intensely bitter and must first be cured.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
whole cured green olives, one to four varieties
Quantity
2 cups (475 ml / 300 g)
drained just before serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole cured green olives, one to four varietiesdrained just before serving | 2 cups (475 ml / 300 g) |
Equipment Needed
- •Fine-mesh colander
- •Clean kitchen towel
- •Small nonreactive serving bowl
- •Small dish for pits
Instructions
- 1
Choose the fruit
Choose whole, brine-cured green olives with plump flesh, taut skins, and a clean fragrance. Taste one before committing the bowl. It should resist gently under the teeth, then release firm, fleshy fruit with enough salt to sharpen its flavour rather than bury it. One excellent variety is better than four indifferent ones; the original list described the larder's choice, not an obligation to make a mixture.
Whole olives generally remain firmer and more fragrant than pitted ones. Set out a small dish for the pits and keep the better texture. - 2
Correct the salt
Drain the serving portion and taste again without a spoonful of brine around it. If the salt is moderate, do not rinse. If it strikes harshly before you can taste the fruit, rinse the olives briefly under cold water, soak them for 5 minutes, then drain and retaste. Repeat once if necessary. Ça se rattrape, but stop as soon as the fruit comes forward or you'll wash away its character. Soft flesh, rancid aromas, or a harsh fermented taste cannot be corrected by rinsing; choose another jar.
- 3
Dry and temper
Spread the drained olives on a clean towel and blot them gently. Leave them covered at room temperature for about 20 minutes, just long enough to take off the refrigerator's chill. Cold dulls their fruit and makes the flesh seem harder than it is. Do not warm them, and do not leave them sitting in a puddle of diluted brine.
- 4
Serve without dressing
Heap the olives generously in a small bowl and set them down exactly as they are. No oil, herbs, garlic, citrus, or decorative leaves. Those belong to other preparations; here the cured fruit carries the whole plate. Add a small dish for the pits and serve. À table!
Chef Tips
- •Lucques olives are curved, fleshy, and gentle; Picholine olives are firmer, narrower, and more distinctly saline. Either suits this preparation, and a single fine jar needs no supporting cast.
- •Buy olives stored in clean brine, with intact skins and no stale oily smell. The colour may vary from yellow-green to deep leaf green, but brown bruising and collapsing flesh are reasons to change the plan.
- •Keep any unserved olives submerged in their original brine and chilled according to the producer's directions. Drain only what you intend to serve, because exposed olives dry and soften.
- •Serve them before the meal with a dry southern French white wine or pack them for a picnic beside bread and charcuterie. Do not dress the olives to make the rest of the table look generous; they already know their part.
Advance Preparation
- •The olives may be selected and tasted several days ahead, but keep them submerged in their original brine until serving day.
- •Up to 2 hours before serving, drain and correct the salt, then cover and chill the olives. Bring them out about 20 minutes before the table is set so their flavour opens.
- •For a picnic, carry the drained olives in a tightly sealed container with a separate empty container for pits. Keep them cool in transit, then let them lose the sharp refrigerator chill before serving.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 75g)
Calories
110 calories
Total Fat
11 g
Saturated Fat
2 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
9 g
Cholesterol
0 mg
Sodium
1170 mg
Total Carbohydrates
3 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
0 g
Protein
1 g
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