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Created by Chef Juliette
Salted for firmness, flashed in very hot oil, and cooled in a lightly acid marinade, these silvery anchovies teach the exact instant when frying stops and setting begins.
Anchois frais marinés (fresh marinated anchovies) teach the difference between setting a fish and frying it. The very hot oil should stiffen the flesh and brighten the silvery skin without giving either time to brown. Seek firmness, not crispness. That single instant is the dish.
The original formula assumed live anchovies, a deep vessel of smoking oil, and five quarts of Cooked Marinade for Venison (No. 168) waiting in the cold pantry. A home kitchen needs twelve ounces of properly handled fish, one cup of the finished marinade, a small heavy saucepan, and a thermometer. The brigade quantity and literal smoke are scaffolding, so they go. The two-hour salting, brief plunge, and lightly acid bath must stay because they create the texture and flavor.
Use fresh, uncured anchovies that have been commercially frozen for raw or lightly cooked service, then thawed under refrigeration. The oil flash is too brief to guarantee parasite destruction, and acid cannot do that work. Dry the fish with great care before they meet the oil; moisture causes violent sputtering and prevents the clean, quick setting you want.
Quantity
24 to 30 fish, about 12 oz (340 g)
commercially frozen for raw or lightly cooked service, thawed under refrigeration, cleaned
Quantity
1/4 cup (60 ml / 72 g)
Quantity
3 cups (720 ml / about 660 g)
for the hot-oil plunge
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small whole fresh anchoviescommercially frozen for raw or lightly cooked service, thawed under refrigeration, cleaned | 24 to 30 fish, about 12 oz (340 g) |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 cup (60 ml / 72 g) |
| refined olive oilfor the hot-oil plunge | 3 cups (720 ml / about 660 g) |
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