Glace Alhambra

Glace Alhambra (a vanilla-ice shell filled with kümmel Chantilly and strawberries) teaches the central rule of moulded ices: build from the outside inward. The liqueur that leaves the berries is not waste. It seasons the Chantilly, carrying the perfume through the whole centre rather than leaving it trapped in occasional pieces of fruit.

The brigade entry assumed vanilla ice already frozen in quantity, a pâtissier tending metal moulds, and enough cold space to hold them between layers. Your honest equivalent is good plain vanilla ice cream, a 1.5-litre Madeleine-mould or narrow metal substitute, and an ordinary freezer. Making a separate batch of vanilla ice is scaffolding for this entry and can go. The two-hour maceration, the kümmel folded into the cream, and clothing the mould are the dish and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening, and for once the stove can remain cold.

The step that decides whether the Glace Alhambra stands cleanly is the shell. Spread the vanilla ice evenly across every part of the bottom and sides, freezing between passes if it begins to slide. Thin patches let the filling show through; thick ones leave too little room for Chantilly. Aim for an even finger's width, then the mould will do the handsome work for you.