Suédoise of Fruit

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1.5 litre metal aspic or ring mould
• •Rimmed tray large enough to hold the mould level
• •Fine-mesh sieve and 1 litre pouring jug
• •Two small saucepans
• •Slotted spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the mould

   Fill the mould with measured water to confirm that it holds about 1.5 litres, then empty it, rinse it with cold water, and leave the faint wet film inside. Do not grease it, because fat clouds the finished jelly. Set the mould on a small rimmed tray so it can travel level between the counter and refrigerator. Sprinkle the gelatine evenly over the cold water and leave it undisturbed for 10 minutes, until every grain has swollen and the surface looks like a firm sponge.

   A simple metal ring or fluted aspic mould releases more cleanly than an elaborate Bundt tin. Deep crevices trap fruit and make unmoulding unnecessarily dramatic.
2. 2

   Poach the pears

   Combine 1 cup (240 ml) of the grape juice, ¼ cup (60 ml / 50 g) of the sugar, and 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) of the lemon juice in a small saucepan. Bring it to a gentle simmer, add the pears, and poach for 5 to 8 minutes, turning once, until a knife enters with slight resistance. The pieces must be tender but still hold their corners. Lift them out with a slotted spoon, spread them on a plate, and leave them to cool completely. Strain and reserve every drop of the pale poaching syrup.

3. 3

   Stew the red fruit

   Put the raspberries in a wide small pan with 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 25 g) of the sugar and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the reserved pear syrup. Turn them gently over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, just until glossy and beginning to surrender their juice. Do not mash them. Drain them in a sieve without pressing, spread them on a separate plate, and chill until completely cold. Pat the drained apricot pieces dry and chill those separately as well. Wet fruit streaks the clear jelly, so give this drying time its due.

4. 4

   Make the clear jelly

   Combine the remaining 2 cups (480 ml) grape juice, the reserved pear syrup, and the remaining 6 tablespoons (90 ml / 75 g) sugar. Warm gently until the sugar dissolves, then remove the pan from the heat. Add the swollen gelatine and stir slowly until perfectly clear, without whisking in bubbles. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) lemon juice, then pass the jelly through a fine sieve into a pouring jug. Let it cool until it feels neither warm nor cold but remains fluid. If it sets in the jug, do not scrape lumps into the mould. Stand the jug in a bowl of warm water and stir until smooth again. Ça se rattrape.

5. 5

   Seal the crown

   Pour about ⅓ cup (80 ml) of the cooled jelly into the mould, turning it gently so the base is evenly covered. Refrigerate for 12 to 20 minutes, until the jelly is firm to a light touch and no liquid travels when the mould is tilted. This clear first layer becomes the polished crown after unmoulding, so keep it free of fruit and bubbles.

6. 6

   Set the pear layer

   Arrange the cold pear pieces evenly over the clear jelly, keeping them a little away from the outer wall so the finished mould retains its glassy surface. Pour in enough cool jelly to cover the fruit by about 5 mm, directing the stream down the back of a spoon. Refrigerate for 25 to 35 minutes, until set firmly through the centre. If the pears float, the jelly is still too loose: lift them out, chill the poured jelly for another 5 minutes, then replace the fruit and continue.

7. 7

   Set the raspberry layer

   Arrange the cold, well-drained raspberries over the pear layer and pour cool jelly around them, never directly onto them, until covered. Chill for another 25 to 35 minutes, until completely firm. This is the layer most likely to bleed. If a crimson trail appears, spoon away the loose stained jelly at once, remove and drain the offending berries, then chill the base for 10 minutes before continuing with fully cooled jelly.

8. 8

   Finish with apricot

   Lay the dry apricot pieces over the firm raspberry layer and cover them with cool jelly. Chill until set, about 30 minutes, then pour in the remaining jelly to form a level base at least 1 cm deep. Depending on the exact displacement of the fruit, a spoonful of jelly may remain. Refrigerate the completed Suédoise for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. Do not cover it until the surface is firm, or the covering will mark the base.

9. 9

   Unmould and serve

   Chill the serving platter before you begin. Dip the mould to just below its rim in comfortably warm water for 5 seconds, dry the outside, place the platter over it, and invert both together in one confident movement. The Suédoise should release with a quiet pull. If it stays put, wrap the mould briefly in a warm damp towel and try again; repeated long dipping melts the fluting before the centre releases. Cut with a thin knife dipped in warm water and serve cold. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Test the mould's capacity with measured water before cooking. A 1.5 litre metal ring mould is ideal here: it chills quickly, releases neatly, and gives every serving all three bands of fruit.
• •Good canned apricots are the honest classical-pantry choice outside their season. Choose halves packed in juice rather than heavy syrup, drain them thoroughly, and keep their amber pieces intact.
• •Do not substitute fresh pineapple, kiwi, papaya, or fresh figs for these fruits. Their enzymes can prevent gelatine from setting properly unless the fruit has been thoroughly cooked.
• •Hold the fluid jelly at cool room temperature while each layer chills. If it begins to thicken, loosen it over warm water rather than reheating it directly; hot jelly melts the layer beneath and erases the contrast you worked for.
• •The raspberry draining juice does not belong in the clear jelly, where it would muddy the whole mould. Keep it for spooning over breakfast fromage blanc.

Advance Preparation

• •The pears, raspberries, and apricots can be prepared and chilled separately one day before assembly. Keep each fruit covered in its own container and drain it again before layering.
• •Assemble the complete Suédoise the day before serving. Six hours is the minimum final chill, while an overnight rest gives the cleanest slices and safest release.
• •The finished mould keeps for up to two days in the refrigerator. Unmould it shortly before serving and return it to the cold if the table is not yet ready.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 205g)