Almond Pudding

Pouding aux amandes (almond pudding) teaches controlled poaching. Its souffléd mixture must set without curdling, keeping a fine, tender crumb beneath its coat of grilled almonds. One true thing before you touch a pan: the bain-marie (hot-water bath) must quiver, never boil.

The original entry assumes Almond Souffléd Pudding (No. 2505) already prepared, a bank of metal moulds, a salamander for grilling the almonds, and a saucier free to whisk the sabayon (warm wine-and-yolk sauce) as the puddings leave the water. At home, six small moulds replace the brigade quantity, your broiler replaces the salamander, and one heatproof bowl makes the sauce while the puddings poach. The rows of moulds and separate saucier are scaffolding and can go. The almond lining, gentle poach, and last-minute sabayon are the dish and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.

Unmoulded, each pudding is pale and softly risen, with bronzed almond splinters fixed around its sides and orgeat-scented sabayon pooling at the base. Keep your attention on the water: a tremble gives tenderness, while a boil leaves the pudding riddled with holes. That is the step that matters most.