Pastry Cream

Crème pâtissière teaches the nerve required of every flour-thickened custard: once it boils, you keep stirring and let it boil. Stop early and raw flour remains; fear the bubbles and the cream won't gain the strength to carry its crown of beaten whites.

The brigade formula assumed twelve yolks, twelve whites, a quart of milk, and two pairs of hands, one beating while the other guarded the pan. At home, every measure is quartered without disturbing the ratios, and the whites are beaten first with an electric mixer. Pasteurized shell eggs are the one ingredient update because their whites enter off the heat. One cook, one stove, one evening.

The brigade's extra hands were scaffolding and can go. The orange-flower water, gelatin, hot folding, and proper boil are the dish and must stay. When the first heavy bubble breaks, add the flavoring and gelatin, then boil for two minutes under constant stirring; that is the step that decides the cream.