Bookmaker Sandwiches

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •12-inch / 30 cm heavy cast-iron skillet or grill pan
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Butcher’s twine
• •Two flat cutting boards or rimless baking sheets
• •Evenly balanced pantry weights totalling about 9 lb / 4 kg
• •Sharp serrated knife

Instructions

1. 1

   Cut the loaf heels

   Cut both end crusts from the unsliced loaf, leaving exactly 1/3 inch / 8 mm of crumb attached to each crust. Set the middle of the loaf aside for another use. Spread the softened butter evenly over both exposed crumb faces, working it right to the crust edge. Do not replace these heels with ordinary slices. Their unbroken outer crust contains the meat juices when the sandwich is pressed.

   Choose a large loaf with two firm, uncracked heel crusts and a square cross-section close to the steak’s shape. The remaining bread makes excellent croûtons or pain perdu.
2. 2

   Grill the steak

   Pat the steak completely dry and season both faces and the edges with the salt and pepper. Heat a heavy grill pan or cast-iron skillet over high heat until thoroughly hot. If the steak has a fat edge, hold that edge against the pan for a minute to render a thin film, then lay the steak flat. Grill without tugging at it until the first face develops a dark Maillard crust, about 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and cook the second face for another 4 to 5 minutes, then colour the edges. Aim for 130°F / 54°C at the centre for medium-rare, or continue to your preferred degree. If the exterior colours too quickly while the centre remains cold, lower the heat and turn the steak every minute until it is ready. Ça se rattrape.

3. 3

   Cool without drying

   Set the steak on a plate and leave it untouched for 10 minutes so its juices settle. Turn it once through any juices on the plate, then continue cooling for 15 to 20 minutes, until it is no longer warm but has not dried at the edges. Cooling is part of the method, not dead time. A hot steak releases its liquid too quickly and makes the bread sodden before pressure can distribute it.

4. 4

   Season and close

   Spread half the English mustard over each face of the cooled steak, then press half the grated horseradish into each mustard-coated side. Place one loaf heel crust-side down, settle the whole steak onto its buttered crumb, and cover it with the second heel, buttered side against the beef and crust facing outward. Keep the steak whole. Slicing it now would open channels through which the juices could escape.

5. 5

   Truss and press

   Ficelez comme une galantine (truss it as for a galantine): tie the parcel snugly with parallel loops of butcher’s twine every 1 1/2 inches / 4 cm, then add one loop around its length. Wrap it in two sheets of parchment and then in a clean, unperfumed kitchen towel, the food-safe home equivalent of the original blotting paper. Set the parcel between two flat boards or rimless baking sheets. Add about 4 lb / 2 kg of evenly balanced weight for 10 minutes, then increase the total to about 9 lb / 4 kg and press for 20 minutes more. If the crust begins to split or juice appears at a seam, lift the upper board, remove half the weight, retie the weak spot, and finish under gentler pressure. Ça se rattrape. The object is saturation, not demolition.

   Large food tins or a cast-iron pan make sensible weights. Centre them carefully so one side of the sandwich is not crushed before the other.
6. 6

   Unwrap and pack

   Remove the weights, towel, parchment, and twine. The loaf should be compact and firm, with the crumb visibly darkened by butter, mustard, and beef juice while the outer crust remains intact. For immediate serving, use a sharp serrated knife to cut the sandwich into four equal portions. For a picnic, leave it whole, rewrap it tightly in fresh parchment or plain white food paper, place it in a close-fitting box, and refrigerate until departure. Carry it in a chilled cooler and cut it when everyone is ready. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask the bakery for an unsliced square sandwich loaf with both heel crusts intact. Ordinary slices cannot contain the juices under pressure, and using them changes the method, not merely the appearance.
• •Fresh horseradish has the clean heat the sandwich needs. Grate it shortly before assembly and keep your face back from the bowl. Drained prepared grated horseradish will serve if the fresh root cannot be found, but creamy horseradish introduces ingredients the source never called for.
• •Use strong prepared English mustard rather than Dijon. The sandwich entered the French repertoire as cuisine anglaise, and that sharp mustard belongs to its racecourse character.
• •For outdoor dining, keep the wrapped sandwich at 40°F / 4°C or colder until mealtime. Once it leaves the cooler, serve it within two hours, or within one hour in very hot weather.

Advance Preparation

• •The sandwich may be grilled, assembled, and pressed one day ahead. Leave it whole, wrap it tightly, and refrigerate it under a light board so it keeps its compact shape.
• •Cut the loaf heels earlier in the day if needed, but keep their cut faces covered until buttering so the shallow crumb remains supple.
• •For the cleanest picnic portions, transport the sandwich whole and chilled, then let it stand for 15 minutes before cutting with a serrated knife.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 355g)