Brochettes d’Huîtres Lucifer

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Oyster knife and protective oyster glove or folded towel
• •Fine-mesh strainer and dampened muslin or coffee filter
• •Small shallow saucepan
• •4 short metal skewers, about 6 inches (15 cm)
• •Heavy 3-quart (3-liter) pot
• •Deep-fry thermometer
• •Wire cooling rack set over a tray

Instructions

1. 1

   Open and strain

   Set a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl, shuck the oysters over it, and catch every drop of their liquor. Keep the oysters whole and inspect them carefully for shell fragments. Strain the liquor again through dampened muslin or a coffee filter; grit hidden in the liquor will remain grit after cooking.

   If the shells are difficult, ask a trusted fishmonger to shuck the oysters and pack them in their strained liquor. Fresh condition and generous liquor matter more here than forcing a particular oyster species onto the plate.
2. 2

   Poach in liquor

   Pour the strained oyster liquor into the smallest shallow pan that will hold the oysters snugly. Bring it only to a tremble, add the oysters in batches if necessary, and poach for 30 to 60 seconds, turning once, until their edges just begin to ruffle. Do not boil them. If the liquor is shallow, tilt the pan and spoon it over the oysters rather than adding water; their own liquor is the foundation specified by the dish. Lift them out immediately and let them cool.

3. 3

   Dry and skewer

   Trim away any tough, dark frilled beard and remove any final shell fragments. Lay the oysters between clean kitchen towels and blot them thoroughly, changing the towels until the surfaces feel tacky rather than wet. Dip each oyster lightly in the thin mustard, let the excess fall away, and thread six oysters onto each short skewer, leaving a narrow space between them so the coating can crisp all around.

4. 4

   Paner à l’anglaise

   Paner à l’anglaise means to coat first with flour, then the prepared egg mixture, then crumbs. Roll each loaded skewer lightly in the flour and tap away every loose patch. Coat it thoroughly with the Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), let the excess drain, then press it gently into the fine breadcrumbs. If the coat slides or exposes an oyster, don't heap more crumbs over the wet patch. Ça se rattrape: remove the loose coating, blot the oyster again, dust it with flour, and repeat the anglaise and crumbs.

5. 5

   Fry at service

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy pot to 375°F (190°C). Lower one or two skewers away from you, according to the width of the pot, and fry for 60 to 90 seconds, turning once, until the crust sets immediately and becomes an even deep gold. Keep the oil above 350°F (175°C); cooler fat gives a greasy coat. If a batch emerges pale, let the oil recover fully and return it for 15 seconds to crisp, no longer, because the oysters are already cooked.

6. 6

   Drain and serve

   Lift the skewers onto a wire rack and drain them for 30 seconds, never onto a flat pile where the undersides soften. Arrange them at once on a folded white napkin set over a warm platter, preserving the source's service without asking the napkin to do the rack's work. Serve immediately, with no added sauce or garnish to hide the mustard, oyster liquor, and crisp panure. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose medium oysters rather than enormous ones. Six must sit securely on each skewer and cook at the same pace; oversized oysters make a clumsy brochette and leave the crust browned before the folds are hot.
• •The source's native oyster meant the prized flat oyster available to its kitchen. Use the best plump local oysters you can buy, with a clean sea smell and plenty of liquor. Technique first, always.
• •Use short metal skewers that fit inside the pot with room to spare. If wooden skewers are all you have, soak them for 30 minutes and check their length against the empty pot before heating the oil.
• •A thermometer earns its place here. Very hot fat solidifies the anglaise coating at once; guessing low produces greasy crumbs, while guessing high scorches them before the oysters warm through.
• •Pour a very dry Muscadet, Chablis, or brut Champagne. The wine should cut the fried crust and respect the oysters rather than compete with the mustard.

Advance Preparation

• •The oysters may be shucked up to 4 hours ahead and kept below 40°F (4°C), submerged in their strained liquor in a covered container.
• •The oysters may be poached, trimmed, and thoroughly dried up to 2 hours before serving. Refrigerate them between clean towels, then apply the mustard and coating shortly before frying.
• •Prepare the Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174) from its own entry several hours ahead and keep it covered and cold. Discard any remainder that has contacted the oysters.
• •Do not fry ahead. Last-moment frying is not brigade scaffolding; it is the dish, and the crust begins softening as soon as it leaves the fat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 185g)