
Chef Juliette
John Dory (St. Pierre)
John Dory has the delicacy of sole and the firmness of turbot. A light flouring, a quick butter sauté, and nut-brown beurre noisette show exactly why looks never mattered.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2286, Macaroni au Gratin, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Macaroni au Gratin turns supple, cheese-bound macaroni into a proper supper with one decisive crust: raspings, Gruyère, Parmesan, and butter browned fast so the top bites while the center stays creamy.
Macaroni au Gratin (macaroni beneath a cheese-and-bread crust) teaches that a gratin is not a casserole left in the oven until tired. It is a finish: the interior arrives already hot and coherent, then a fierce burst of heat bronzes a thin top before the macaroni dries. The raspings matter more than their modest name suggests. Cheese alone melts, tightens, and can turn leathery; bread raspings mixed with butter give the crust bite.
The classical entry assumed Macaroni à l’Italienne (No. 2285) ready from the sautépan, a saucier holding Béchamel, brigade portions, and a salamander or fierce range waiting for Gratins (No. 268). At home, the separate hands and oversized quantities are scaffolding, so they go. A shallow two-quart dish, an upper oven rack, and a brief broiler finish do the same work for four. What stays is the dish itself: only enough Béchamel to loosen, real butter, cheese above and below, raspings across the surface, and hard heat at the end. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Have both macaroni and Béchamel warm before they meet, then stop adding sauce as soon as the pasta settles in a glossy mound. A flooded base cannot support a crisp crown. The one step that decides this dish is the topping: mix the raspings with cheese and melted butter before scattering it, then bake at once.
Macaroni au gratin belongs to the French bourgeois table and the classical kitchens of Paris, where dried Italian macaroni was absorbed into the French system of sauces and gratins. Its base, Macaroni à l’Italienne (No. 2285), kept the Italian signal of Parmesan, while Gruyère, butter, Béchamel, and the codified family of Gratins (No. 268) placed the finished dish firmly inside the French canon. Bread raspings are not filler: generations of cooks used them to interrupt the cheese layer, drink in butter, and give the crown bite rather than chew.
Quantity
1 four-serving batch (about 6½ cups / 1.5 L / 1 kg) Macaroni à l’Italienne (No. 2285)
Quantity
½ to ¾ cup (120 to 180 ml / 125 to 185 g)
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 25 g)
finely grated
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 25 g)
finely grated
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 35 g)
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g)
1 tablespoon softened and 2 tablespoons melted
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| warm Macaroni à l’Italienne | 1 four-serving batch (about 6½ cups / 1.5 L / 1 kg) Macaroni à l’Italienne (No. 2285) |
| warm Béchamel sauce | ½ to ¾ cup (120 to 180 ml / 125 to 185 g) |
| Gruyèrefinely grated | ¼ cup (60 ml / 25 g) |
| Parmesanfinely grated | ¼ cup (60 ml / 25 g) |
| fine dry bread raspings (fine breadcrumbs) | ½ cup (120 ml / 35 g) |
| unsalted butter1 tablespoon softened and 2 tablespoons melted | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) |
Set a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat it fully to 475°F (245°C), with a rimmed baking sheet inside. Butter a shallow 2-quart (1.9 L) gratin dish with the softened tablespoon of butter. Mix the Gruyère and Parmesan, then scatter about 2 tablespoons of the mixture across the buttered base. The hot sheet and shallow dish are the home equivalents of the fierce range: they form the gratin quickly without drying the macaroni.
Put the warm Macaroni à l’Italienne (No. 2285) in a broad sautépan over low heat. Fold in ½ cup (120 ml) of the warm Béchamel, tossing only until the macaroni is glossy, coherent, and relaxed enough to settle from the spoon. Add the remaining Béchamel by tablespoons only if it still feels tight. If the cheese turns oily or stringy, take the pan off the heat at once. Ça se rattrape: beat in a tablespoon of reserved Béchamel until the emulsion comes together, then stop heating. The sauce should cling, never pool.
Spoon the macaroni into the prepared dish and level it lightly without packing it down. Combine the raspings with the remaining grated cheese, drizzle over the 2 tablespoons of melted butter, and toss until the crumbs resemble damp golden sand. Scatter this mixture evenly from rim to rim. Cheese alone leathers under fierce heat; the raspings separate it, absorb the butter, and give the crust its bite. This step is the dish, not brigade scaffolding, so keep it.
Set the dish on the hot baking sheet and bake for 8 to 12 minutes, until the Béchamel bubbles visibly around the rim and the crown is deeply bronzed. This is the rapid form described under Gratins (No. 268): everything beneath the crust is already cooked, so the oven’s work is color, not a long bake. Rotate the dish once if one side colors faster. If the edges bubble while the top remains pale, broil for 30 to 60 seconds, watching without interruption; if the crust races ahead, move the dish down one rack.
Let the gratin stand for 5 minutes, just long enough for the sauce to settle around the macaroni while the crust remains crisp. Bring the dish straight to the table and serve broad spoonfuls that break through the bronzed top into the creamy center. A sharp green salad needs no further ceremony beside it. À table!
1 serving (about 300g)
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