
Chef Juliette
Suet Dumpling
Boulettes au suif, poached beside salt beef, turn equal weights of flour and finely chopped suet into tender, rich dumplings. Keep the beef liquor at a bare tremble and the old garnish works beautifully at home.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2282, Gnochi de Pommes de Terre, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Hot potato, butter, egg, and flour become fork-marked gnochi, poached until light, then layered with Gruyère and melted butter beneath a bronzed gratin. Work fast, because cold potato drinks flour.
Gnochi de pommes de terre (hot-worked potato dumplings) teaches one true thing: potato must meet butter, egg, and flour while its purée is still very hot. Let it cool and it drinks flour, and what should be tender becomes heavy. The fork marks aren't decoration alone; they give the cheese and butter small ridges to catch.
The source begins with two pounds of potatoes, enough for a larger service, with several hands able to shape the mixture before its heat escapes. I have halved that formula for four side servings and kept its proportions intact: one pound of potato, 21 grams of butter, one small egg, one yolk, and 76 grams of flour. The cheese and finishing butter were left to the cook's hand, so I have measured them generously enough to build the prescribed gratin without burying the dumplings.
A ricer replaces the brigade's rapid passing, a clean towel-lined tray replaces service linen, and a fully preheated oven performs the gratin, with the broiler held in reserve for a reluctant top. The saucier and the stockpot never enter because this dish needs neither. Those are scaffolding; working the purée hot, poaching the forked pieces, and layering them with cheese and melted butter are the dish. One cook, one stove, one evening. Have the eggs beaten and the flour weighed before you drain the potatoes, because finishing the dough while their heat remains is the step that decides everything.
Gnochi de pommes de terre sits in the French classical repertory as a French reading of the potato gnocchi of northern Italy, not as the native specialty of one French region. Grand kitchens enriched the hot potato purée with butter, whole egg, yolk, pepper, and nutmeg, then carried the dumplings into the French family of gratins with grated cheese and melted butter. The source's single-c spelling is its French rendering, while the forked dumpling and its insistence on hot, dry potato preserve the technique of its Italian home.
Quantity
1 pound (16 oz / 454 g; about 3 medium)
peeled and cut into equal pieces
Quantity
1½ tablespoons (¾ oz / 21 g)
softened
Quantity
1 small egg (about 2½ tablespoons / 38 g out of shell)
Quantity
1 large egg yolk (about 1 tablespoon / 18 g)
Quantity
Scant ⅔ cup (2⅔ oz / 76 g)
Quantity
Up to 2 tablespoons (½ oz / 16 g)
for handling and rescue only
Quantity
¾ teaspoon (0.16 oz / 4.5 g)
Quantity
¼ teaspoon (0.02 oz / 0.6 g)
Quantity
⅛ teaspoon (0.01 oz / 0.25 g)
Quantity
6 quarts (5.7 L / 5.7 kg)
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons (1¼ oz / 36 g)
divided
Quantity
¾ cup (2½ oz / 70 g), for Gratins (No. 268)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| floury potatoes, such as russetspeeled and cut into equal pieces | 1 pound (16 oz / 454 g; about 3 medium) |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 1½ tablespoons (¾ oz / 21 g) |
| small egg | 1 small egg (about 2½ tablespoons / 38 g out of shell) |
| large egg yolk | 1 large egg yolk (about 1 tablespoon / 18 g) |
| all-purpose flour | Scant ⅔ cup (2⅔ oz / 76 g) |
| all-purpose flour (optional)for handling and rescue only | Up to 2 tablespoons (½ oz / 16 g) |
| fine salt | ¾ teaspoon (0.16 oz / 4.5 g) |
| freshly ground pepper | ¼ teaspoon (0.02 oz / 0.6 g) |
| freshly grated nutmeg | ⅛ teaspoon (0.01 oz / 0.25 g) |
| waterdivided | 6 quarts (5.7 L / 5.7 kg) |
| coarse saltdivided | 2 tablespoons (1¼ oz / 36 g) |
| finely grated Gruyère | ¾ cup (2½ oz / 70 g), for Gratins (No. 268) |
| unsalted buttermelted | 3 tablespoons (1½ oz / 43 g), for Gratins (No. 268) |
Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C) with a rack in the upper third. Use 1 teaspoon of the finishing butter to coat a shallow 1½-quart gratin dish. Grate the Gruyère, melt the remaining finishing butter, beat the whole egg with the yolk, and weigh the flour and seasonings. Keep everything beside the stove. This mise en place matters because hot potato will not wait.
Put the potatoes in a large pot with 3 quarts (2.8 L / 2.8 kg) cold water and 1 tablespoon (⅝ oz / 18 g) coarse salt. Cook them à l'anglaise, boiled in salted water, at a steady gentle boil until a knife passes through without resistance, about 18 to 22 minutes. Drain them the instant they are tender, then return them to the dry pot over low heat and shake for 30 to 60 seconds. Their surfaces should turn dry and floury, never wet or glossy.
Pass the potatoes immediately through a ricer or food mill into a warm bowl. Beat in the softened butter, fine salt, pepper, and nutmeg with a wooden spoon. Add the beaten egg and yolk in two additions, stirring briskly after each, then scatter over the scant ⅔ cup (76 g) flour and fold only until no dry streaks remain. Do not knead. The mixture should be very warm, soft, and barely tacky; prolonged working develops the flour and turns tenderness into bounce.
Fill the cleaned pot with the remaining 3 quarts (2.8 L / 2.8 kg) water, add the remaining 1 tablespoon (18 g) coarse salt, and bring it to a boil while you shape. Divide the warm mixture into about 24 walnut-sized portions. Roll each lightly between floured palms, then press it gently with a fork in one direction and again across the first marks to make the source's criss-cross pattern. Dust your hands, not the mixture; pouring extra flour into a merely tacky dough makes it heavy.
Slip one gnochi into the boiling water as a test. Moderate the heat to a steady, quiet boil, and cook until the piece rises, then give it another minute. If it holds, poach the rest in batches of six so the water never cools or churns violently. If the test piece clouds the water and begins dissolving, fold 1 tablespoon (8 g) of the rescue flour into the remaining mixture and test again, adding the second spoonful only if necessary. Ça se rattrape. Lift each finished batch with a slotted spoon onto a clean towel-lined tray; a colander lets their own weight crush them.
Arrange half the drained gnochi in the buttered dish and sprinkle with half the Gruyère. Add the remaining gnochi, cover with the remaining cheese, and bedew the surface liberally with the melted butter. Apply the Gratins (No. 268) finish by baking for 8 to 12 minutes, until the cheese is butter-gold, the ridges are bronzed, and the edges bubble. If the edges are ready but the top remains pale, place it under the home broiler for 30 to 60 seconds, the honest equivalent of a salamander, and watch without blinking.
Let the gratin stand for 3 to 5 minutes. The brief rest lets the butter and cheese settle around the gnochi without stealing their softness. Bring the baking dish directly to the table and serve generous spoonfuls while the forked tops remain crisp at their edges. À table!
1 serving (about 195g)
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