Fried Salsify

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide 3-quart saucepan
• •Deep 4-quart heavy pot
• •Clip-on frying thermometer
• •Wire rack set over a sheet pan
• •Spider or long-handled slotted spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the roots

   Put the water, 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) of the lemon juice, and 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g) of the salt in a wide saucepan. Peel the salsify, trimming away both ends, and lower each root into the acidulated water as soon as it is bare. Salsify darkens quickly and releases a sticky sap, so work one root at a time. If the roots will not fit, cut them only enough to sit beneath the water; the final lengths are cut after cooking.

   Gloves spare your hands the sticky sap, but a little oil rubbed over your fingers also does the job. Rinse the peeler promptly.
2. 2

   Cook until tender

   Bring the saucepan to a gentle simmer and cover the surface with a round of baking paper so the roots remain submerged. Cook for 12 to 18 minutes, depending on thickness, until a small knife enters with light resistance. Tender is right; collapsing is not. Lift the roots carefully onto a wire rack and leave them for at least 10 minutes, turning once, until no water gathers beneath them.

3. 3

   Mix the batter

   Reserve 2 tablespoons (15 g) of the flour for correcting the batter if needed. Whisk the remaining flour with the egg yolk, 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 4.5 g) neutral oil, ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g) salt, and the sparkling water until smooth and thin enough to fall from the whisk in a continuous ribbon. Let it rest while the salsify marinates. Just before frying, beat the egg white to soft peaks and fold it through gently. If the batter sits heavily on a spoon, loosen it with a little more sparkling water; it should veil the salsify, not bury it.

4. 4

   Marinate the lengths

   Cut the drained salsify into lengths of 3½ inches (9 cm) and arrange them in a shallow dish. Season with ¼ teaspoon (1.25 ml / 1.5 g) salt and the pepper, then add the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) lemon juice, the Cooked Marinade for Venison (No. 168), the remaining 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 4.5 g) neutral oil, and 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 8 g) finely chopped parsley. Marinate for 25 to 30 minutes, turning the pieces gently two or three times so every surface is seasoned.

5. 5

   Dry before coating

   Pour away the marinade and spread the salsify on a clean towel. Blot every length thoroughly, including the cut ends, then leave them exposed while the frying oil heats. This is the step that decides the dish. A wet surface turns the batter loose, and the coating slides away in the fat.

   Do not dust the lengths thickly with flour. The source calls for a thin batter, and a floury undercoat makes the shell heavy.
6. 6

   Test the coating

   Heat the frying oil in a deep, heavy pot to 365°F (185°C), filling the pot no more than halfway. Dip one length into the batter, let the excess fall away, and lower it carefully into the oil. If the coating holds and begins crisping at once, continue. If it slides off, stop. Ça se rattrape: lift out the test piece, blot the remaining salsify again, whisk 1 tablespoon of the reserved flour into the batter, and repeat the test.

7. 7

   Fry hard

   Coat and fry the salsify in small batches without crowding the pot. Hold the oil between 360°F and 375°F (182°C and 190°C), waiting between batches if necessary. Fry for 2½ to 3½ minutes, turning once, until the batter is dry, crisp, and deep gold. Lift the pieces onto a wire rack and season at once with half of the remaining salt. The rack preserves the crust; a heap on paper softens it.

8. 8

   Fry the parsley

   Make certain the parsley sprigs are completely dry. Lower them into the hot oil with a spider, standing back from the brief spatter, and fry for 5 to 8 seconds until deep green and crisp. Drain on the rack and season with the last pinch of salt. Arrange the salsifis frits on a clean folded napkin, scatter the fried parsley over them, and serve immediately. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose firm roots without soft patches. Pale true salsify and black-skinned scorzonera differ slightly in flavour, but either will take this preparation honestly; peel the dark skin completely before cooking.
• •The Cooked Marinade for Venison (No. 168) is a finished referenced preparation, so reach for it as made and measure only the two tablespoons needed here. Its large original quantity belongs to brigade organization, not tonight's batch.
• •Keep the oil properly hot. Cool fat soaks the batter and leaves it leathery; violently hot fat colours the shell before the root is heated through. A clip-on thermometer removes the guesswork.
• •Serve these beside roast chicken, a simple grilled chop, or firm white fish. A dry white with good acidity, such as Mâcon-Villages or Sancerre, handles both the earthy root and the frying fat.

Advance Preparation

• •The salsify can be peeled and cooked up to 6 hours ahead. Drain it thoroughly and refrigerate it uncovered on a rack, then cut and marinate it only 25 to 30 minutes before frying.
• •The batter base can rest in the cold for up to 2 hours. Beat and fold in the egg white only when the oil is nearly hot.
• •Do not fry the salsify ahead. The crust is at its best during the first few minutes, while it remains dry and crisp around the tender root.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 255g)