Sorrel (Oseille)

Oseille teaches the discipline of rounding acidity without erasing it. Sorrel begins sharp enough to wake the mouth; two quiet hours with a pale roux and consommé make that edge deep and savory, then yolks, cream, and butter give the purée its satin body. This is not a quick green sauté, and its olive color is not a mistake.

The original entry assumed a saucier to watch the pot, consommé never far from the fire, and a tammy waiting for the final sieving. For four people, every stated amount for the roux, consommé, liaison, cream, and butter is reduced by exactly half. The entry gives no weight for the leaves, so 1 pound is the honest home measure: enough to fill a household saucepan before collapsing and to yield four generous portions. A covered ovenproof pan replaces constant brigade attention, and a fine-mesh sieve replaces the tammy. Those are scaffolding. The two-hour braise, thorough sieving, and yolk liaison are the dish, so they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.

Before you touch the roux, drain the cooked leaves harder than feels necessary. Water carried into the pan weakens the consommé and leaves the finished purée loose and dull. Press until no more liquid falls. That complete draining is the step that decides the dish.