
Chef Juliette
Suet Dumpling
Boulettes au suif, poached beside salt beef, turn equal weights of flour and finely chopped suet into tender, rich dumplings. Keep the beef liquor at a bare tremble and the old garnish works beautifully at home.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2165, Soufflé de Laitues, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Soufflé de Laitues makes lettuce carry a grand soufflé: tender green leaves, a feather-light fold, and anchovy lattices that season every slice beneath a high, bronzed crown.
Soufflé de Laitues (lettuce soufflé) teaches the hardest and most useful truth about any vegetable soufflé: the vegetable must be dry before the whites ever meet it. Lettuce holds more water than it admits. Drive that water off, then fold lightly, and the Soufflé de Laitues rises around fine anchovy lattices with a tender green centre and a bronzed dome.
The source entry sends the cook directly to Soufflé aux Épinards (No. 2139), because a professional kitchen assumed that composition already stood ready, along with enough hands to blanch, squeeze, fold, and layer it at once. There is no work here for a saucier, no stockpot to keep on the fire, and no honest use for a salamander. The home equivalent is one home-scale batch of the linked composition, lettuce replacing spinach, a straight-sided 1.5-quart dish, and a thoroughly preheated oven. Brigade quantities and spare hands are scaffolding, so those go. The reference ratio, light fold, and anchovy lattices are the dish, so they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Squeeze the blanched lettuce until the towel stays nearly dry, then dry it once more in the pan if it weeps. Air lost during the final fold doesn't come back, so stop while a few faint traces of white remain. Dry the lettuce first, then protect the fold. That is the whole ascent.
Soufflé de laitues has no honest claim to a provincial farmhouse; its home is the Parisian classical kitchen, where lettuce was cooked as a proper vegetable and soufflé formulas moved between garnishes with disciplined ease. The entry passes directly through Soufflé aux Épinards (No. 2139), changing the green while retaining the layered anchovy lattice, proof that the canon works through families of technique rather than isolated recipes. The soaked anchovies are structural seasoning, not a Provençal flourish or decorative afterthought: every spoonful is meant to catch lettuce, airy composition, and salt together.
Quantity
3 packed quarts (2.8 L / 600 g)
washed, with tough ribs removed
Quantity
1 home-scale batch Soufflé aux Épinards (No. 2139)
prepare through the unbaked stage, replacing spinach with the prepared lettuce
Quantity
18 fillets (about 55 g after cleaning)
rinsed, soaked, and dried
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
softened
Quantity
1 large white (30 ml / 30 g)
reserve only for rescuing overbeaten whites
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| romaine heart and butter lettuce leaveswashed, with tough ribs removed | 3 packed quarts (2.8 L / 600 g) |
| Soufflé aux Épinards compositionprepare through the unbaked stage, replacing spinach with the prepared lettuce | 1 home-scale batch Soufflé aux Épinards (No. 2139) |
| salt-packed anchovy filletsrinsed, soaked, and dried | 18 fillets (about 55 g after cleaning) |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| egg white (optional)reserve only for rescuing overbeaten whites | 1 large white (30 ml / 30 g) |
Set a rack in the lower-middle of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C), or 350°F (175°C) with convection. Butter the bottom and sides of a 1.5-quart (1.4 L) straight-sided soufflé dish, drawing the butter upward along the walls. Those strokes give the expanding composition a clean path to climb. Keep the prepared dish cool while you work.
Drop the lettuce into a large pot of boiling water and blanch for 2 to 3 minutes, just until the leaves collapse and turn a deeper green. Drain at once, rinse briefly under cold water, and squeeze the leaves by handfuls. Wrap them in a clean towel and twist firmly until almost no water comes through, then chop them very finely. If the chopped lettuce leaves a wet film in the bowl, spread it in a wide dry pan over medium heat and stir until that film disappears. Ça se rattrape. Cool completely before it meets the eggs.
Brush away the packing salt, separate the fillets, and remove any visible bones. Rinse them, then soak in cold water for 10 minutes, changing the water once. Drain and press thoroughly dry between towels. They should remain pleasantly salty because they season the mild lettuce, but they must not carry loose water into the soufflé.
Prepare one home-scale batch of the unbaked composition from Soufflé aux Épinards (No. 2139) exactly as linked, using the dry lettuce wherever that preparation calls for spinach. Keep its proportions and sequence intact. At the final fold, the whites should hold glossy medium peaks, then disappear into the base with broad turns of the spatula. Stop while a few faint white traces remain. If the whites become dry and clumpy before folding, whisk in the optional fresh egg white by hand until they regain a supple gloss, then continue.
Spread one-third of the composition in the buttered dish without pressing out its air. Arrange six anchovy fillets over it as a loose lattice, three in one direction and three crossing them. Add another third of the composition and repeat with six more fillets. Spoon over the final third, shaping it into a gentle dome, then lay the remaining anchovies across the top in two crossed rows. Wipe the rim clean so the soufflé rises evenly.
Bake immediately for 28 to 35 minutes. Keep the oven closed for at least the first 24 minutes, while the egg-white structure is still fragile. The Soufflé de Laitues is ready when it stands well above the rim, the dome is deep butter-gold, and the centre gives a gentle wobble rather than a liquid slosh. If the top colours before the centre reaches that point, reduce the oven to 350°F (175°C) and continue for 4 to 6 minutes.
Carry the dish directly to the table and spoon down through the anchovy layers so every serving receives lettuce, airy interior, and a little salt. A soufflé begins settling as soon as it leaves the oven because that is its nature, not a failure. Never apologize at your own table. À table!
1 serving (about 230g)
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