
Chef Juliette
Ordinary or White Consommé
Beef shin, lean beef, and fowl begin in cold water and rise slowly toward a tremble. Skim before the boil, and you learn the quiet discipline that gives every clear French broth its backbone.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 181, Spices, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Ten dry seasonings, ground fine and sifted into one balanced épices: a small home batch that keeps the book's exact proportions and teaches why cool grinding and airtight storage preserve aroma.
Épices (classical French spice blend) teaches one true thing: aroma is the ingredient. Grind the mixture cool, sift it very fine, and seal it immediately. Let the grinder heat the spices or leave the jar open, and the best part of the seasoning escapes before it reaches the pot.
The source formula assumes a deep mortar, strong arms, and a 42-ounce professional batch. This version is exactly one-tenth of that quantity, with every proportion intact, and a small blade grinder stands in for the long pounding. The brigade quantity and the hours at the mortar were scaffolding. The balance of bay, thyme, warm spices, pepper, and cayenne, followed by fine sieving, is the preparation itself and stays untouched.
Don't toast the spices. Toasting would add a roasted character the formula never asked for. The step that matters is the grinding: work in short pulses and stop whenever the grinder feels warm. One cook, one grinder, one evening.
Épices belongs to the national classical pantry shaped in Paris, not to the larder of any one French region; it seasoned forcemeats, pies, galantines, and other preparations needing one measured aromatic blend. For generations, chefs kept individual formulas, while professional suppliers eventually made dependable ready-ground mixtures available and turned the house blend into a pantry standard. Here, "all-spice" names a composed seasoning, not the single pimenta berry sold in English-speaking markets.
Quantity
about 1½ cups loosely packed (355 ml / 14.2 g)
broken
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 8.5 g)
half wild thyme if available
Quantity
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons (25 ml / 8.5 g)
Quantity
¼ cup loosely filled (60 ml / 11.3 g)
broken into small pieces
Quantity
about 3 (17 g)
cracked into small pieces
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 11.3 g)
Quantity
¼ cup loosely filled (60 ml / 8.5 g)
Quantity
⅓ cup loosely filled (80 ml / 8.5 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons each (60 ml / 28.3 g total; 14.2 g each)
Quantity
1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 2.8 g)
Quantity
as needed Salt (No. 188)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| very dry bay leavesbroken | about 1½ cups loosely packed (355 ml / 14.2 g) |
| very dry thymehalf wild thyme if available | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 8.5 g) |
| very dry coriander seeds | 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons (25 ml / 8.5 g) |
| very dry cinnamon sticksbroken into small pieces | ¼ cup loosely filled (60 ml / 11.3 g) |
| whole nutmegscracked into small pieces | about 3 (17 g) |
| very dry whole cloves | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 11.3 g) |
| very dry ginger root chips | ¼ cup loosely filled (60 ml / 8.5 g) |
| very dry mace blades | ⅓ cup loosely filled (80 ml / 8.5 g) |
| black and white peppercorns | 2 tablespoons each (60 ml / 28.3 g total; 14.2 g each) |
| ground cayenne | 1½ teaspoons (7.5 ml / 2.8 g) |
| Salt (optional) | as needed Salt (No. 188) |
Inspect every seasoning before weighing. Bay and thyme must crumble readily, while ginger, cinnamon, and mace must snap cleanly rather than bend. Do not grind anything leathery, damp, or stale; moisture makes a clotted powder and shortens its keeping life. Weigh each ingredient separately, treating the gram amounts as the governing measures because leaves and whole spices settle differently in a cup.
Crack the nutmegs and break the cinnamon and dried ginger into pieces small enough for the grinder. Combine them thoroughly with the bay, thyme, coriander, cloves, mace, both peppercorns, and cayenne in a wide dry bowl. Stir from the bottom until the light leaves and heavy seeds are evenly distributed; mixing before grinding keeps every small batch in the original proportion.
Fill the spice grinder no more than one-third full and pulse in short bursts until the contents become a fine powder. Stir the bowl again before measuring each new load, since peppercorns and nutmeg settle beneath the herbs. If the powder cakes against the grinder or the bowl grows warm, stop. Spread that batch thinly on a dry plate, let both spice and grinder cool completely, then pulse again. Ça se rattrape. Heat drives away aroma, so patience here is part of the seasoning.
Pass every ground batch through a very fine-mesh sieve into a clean, dry bowl. Return the coarse pieces to the grinder and repeat until they pass through; stubborn threads of mace or chips of cinnamon can be finished in a mortar. Do not force coarse fragments through the mesh. The fine, even powder is not cosmetic, it is what lets a small measure season forcemeat or sauce without leaving a sudden bite of clove behind.
Stir the sifted épices once more, then funnel it immediately into a completely dry airtight jar. Fill the jar as fully as practical, close it firmly, and keep it in a cool, dark cupboard away from the stove. If condensation or clumps appear later, the jar or its spoon was damp; spread the blend on a dry plate until loose, transfer it to a fresh dry jar, and use it promptly.
Keep the stored épices unsalted so its use remains flexible. When a pie, galantine, or another preparation calls for the seasoned condiment, reach for Salt (No. 188) as the finished component and combine it with the measured épices according to that preparation's stated proportion. Stir the spice jar before measuring, then close it at once.
1 serving (about 5g)
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