Peeled, Channelled, and Zested Lemons

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Very sharp 6-inch (15 cm) flexible boning or paring knife
• •Channel knife or canneleur
• •Small saucepan
• •Two medium bowls
• •Fine-mesh strainer

Instructions

1. 1

   Divide the lemons

   For a complete practice set, reserve two lemons for peeled slices and julienne zest, one for channelled half-discs, and one for the simple halved garnish. Scrub and dry them well before cutting. A damp lemon slips under the knife, while a dry one gives you control.

2. 2

   Peel to the pulp

   Trim a thin slice from both ends of the first two lemons so they stand securely. Following each lemon's curve, cut away the yellow rind and the entire layer of white pith in downward strips, leaving clean pulp exposed. Turn the lemon after every cut rather than twisting your wrist. Slice the peeled fruit crosswise, thinly for garnish or more generously for marinade use. If the knife bites deeply into the pulp, ça se rattrape: keep those less regular slices for the marinade and reserve the cleanest rounds for the platter.

   Remove the pith with shallow second passes instead of one heroic cut. Control saves more fruit than speed.
3. 3

   Cut the julienne

   Lay the removed rind flat with its white inner surface facing upward. Hold a very sharp flexible knife nearly parallel to the board and shave away every remaining trace of pith without stripping off the coloured film. Cut the cleaned zest into panels about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, then cut laterally across them into very fine julienne-fashion matchsticks. If the rind breaks, line up the smaller pieces and cut shorter matchsticks. The aroma and colour remain, and nothing has been lost.

4. 4

   Scald the zest

   Bring 4 cups (950 ml / 950 g) of the water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the julienne zest and scald it for exactly 5 minutes, keeping the water at a controlled boil. This softens the rind and tempers its bitterness without cooking away its character. Lift the zest immediately into the remaining 4 cups (950 ml / 950 g) of cold fresh water, cool it completely, then drain with care and blot gently. If it has softened more than intended, chop it finely and use it in that form. Ça se rattrape.

5. 5

   Channel and slice

   Draw a channel knife lengthwise over the third lemon, removing narrow parallel ribbons of coloured rind and exposing the white pith beneath. Space the channels evenly around the fruit. Cut the lemon lengthwise through its core, trim both ends straight, and slice each half laterally into thin, regular half-discs with serrated yellow-and-white edges. For full serrated rounds, cut across the whole channelled lemon at right angles to its core instead.

6. 6

   Make simple halves

   For the plain garnish preferred with fried fish, oysters, and certain game, trim the final lemon's two ends quite straight and halve it through the centre. Pare a rough narrow band of rind from the cut edge of each half so the pulp is easy to squeeze. Cooking well is not cooking fancy, and this direct little garnish is often the best one.

7. 7

   Use or hold

   Use the prepared lemons at once whenever possible. If the peeled or channelled pieces must wait, submerge them in fresh cold water, cover, and refrigerate briefly, then drain and blot them before service. Keep the blanched julienne zest well drained and covered. If using the peeled slices with the Cooked Marinade for Venison (No. 168), reach for that marinade fully prepared and cold, adding only the quantity of lemon required for the intended service; its separate formula remains whole. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose firm, heavy lemons with smooth skins. Thick, heavily ridged fruit carries more white pith, which means more trimming and less usable zest.
• •A canneleur, or channel knife, makes the regular grooves cleanly. Without one, cut shallow parallel V-shaped channels with the point of a sharp paring knife, taking rind rather than pulp.
• •The five-minute scald is not brigade fuss. It makes the julienne supple and removes its coarse bitterness, so keep that step even when preparing only one lemon.
• •Fresh water protects cut lemon briefly, but it also steals aroma over time. Last-moment preparation remains the better answer.

Advance Preparation

• •Peeled rounds and channelled slices are best cut immediately before service. If necessary, hold them submerged in fresh cold water, covered and refrigerated, for up to 4 hours; drain and blot them thoroughly before use.
• •The scalded julienne zest may be prepared up to 1 day ahead. Drain it carefully, wrap it in a barely damp cloth or paper towel, and refrigerate it in a covered container.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 225g)