Anchovies (Fillets of)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Small sharp paring knife
• •Fish tweezers
• •Narrow 1-cup (240 ml) glass jar with lid

Instructions

1. 1

   Ready the jar

   Wash a narrow 1-cup jar and its lid in hot soapy water, rinse them well, and dry them until not a bead of moisture remains. This preparation is kept in the refrigerator rather than heat-processed, so the vessel must begin impeccably clean and dry.

2. 2

   Wash away scales

   Rinse the anchovies one at a time under very cold water, rubbing each gently between your thumb and fingers to loosen the salt and white scale-powder. Do not leave them soaking; prolonged soaking washes away the seasoning that preserves and defines them. Lay each fish on a clean towel and wipe it firmly but gently. If a chalky bloom remains, rinse and wipe again. Ça se rattrape here; the oil will only trap what you leave behind.

   Change to a clean, dry section of towel as it becomes wet. A damp towel cannot dry the fish, however earnestly you press.
3. 3

   Trim clean oblongs

   Lay each anchovy flat. If the head or viscera remain, remove them, then trim away the belly fringe, fins, and tail tip to form a neat extended oblong. This is not decorative fuss: even edges give you long, useful fillets that lie flat on bread, roll cleanly, and disappear evenly into a sauce.

4. 4

   Pull the fillets

   Open each anchovy along the belly seam like a little book. Grip the backbone at the head end and pull it gently toward the tail; the spine and most of the fine ribs should lift away together, leaving two fillets. Remove any stubborn bones with tweezers. If a fillet tears, don’t discard it. Ça se rattrape: reserve the broken pieces for sauces and keep the unbroken fillets for hors d’œuvres.

5. 5

   Cut or keep whole

   For culinary use, lay each fillet skin-side down and divide it lengthwise into three or four slender fillets with a sharp knife. Pull the blade in one clean stroke rather than sawing through the soft flesh. If you intend to make anchovy rings, leave the fillets whole and roll them only when serving.

6. 6

   Cover completely with oil

   Pack the fillets snugly into the narrow jar or a small lidded bowl and pour over enough oil to cover them by about ¼ inch (6 mm). Slide a clean knife around the edge and tap the vessel gently to release hidden air pockets. If any fillet rises above the surface, press it down and add more oil; exposed fish dries, darkens, and spoils first. Cover and refrigerate at once. Lift out portions with a clean fork, return the jar promptly to the cold, and use within two weeks. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Buy whole salt-packed anchovies with firm flesh and a clean sea smell. Already-oiled fillets cannot reproduce this preparation because the washing, trimming, and gentle removal from the bones are the technique being taught.
• •The source asks simply for oil. Choose a mild olive oil or a neutral oil that will protect the anchovy without drowning its flavour; a fiercely peppery bottle takes command of every sauce it enters.
• •Oil may turn cloudy or firm in the refrigerator. That is harmless. Set out only the portion you need for ten minutes, and it will loosen again; keep the main jar cold and every fillet submerged.

Advance Preparation

• •The filets d’anchois are ready immediately, though a few hours under oil lets them settle and become easier to handle. Keep them refrigerated, fully submerged, and use within two weeks.
• •If rings are planned, store the fillets whole rather than pre-rolled. Drain and roll them shortly before serving so they hold a clean shape.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 15g)