Poussins Cendrillon

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Sturdy poultry shears
• •12-inch (30 cm) heavy skillet
• •Large rimmed sheet pan with wire rack
• •Two broad heatproof spatulas
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Pastry brush
• •Warmed saucière

Instructions

1. 1

   Open the poussins

   Use poultry shears to cut along both sides of each backbone and remove it. Open each poussin like a book, turn it breast-side up, and press firmly on the breastbone until the bird lies flat. Remove any stray feathers, then dry every surface thoroughly. Wet skin stews in the pan, while dry skin gives the butter something it can brown.

2. 2

   Brown in butter

   Melt 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) of the butter in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. When the foam subsides, brown the poussins in two batches, skin-side down first, until deep gold in patches, about 3 minutes per side. Add the reserved tablespoon of butter if the pan becomes dry. You are beginning the colour, not cooking the birds through. If the butter turns black, lift out the poussins, wipe away only the burnt fat, and continue with fresh butter. Ça se rattrape.

3. 3

   Season and jacket

   Combine the salt and cayenne, then season the browned poussins evenly on both sides, following the source sequence precisely. Let them cool for 10 minutes. Lay one sheet of caul flat for each bird. Divide the cold forcemeat into eight equal portions and press four portions into thin bird-shaped layers on the caul, no more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Set a poussin over each, cover with the remaining forcemeat, and smooth it into an equally thin upper layer. Fold the caul snugly around each parcel and trim only the heavy excess. If the caul tears, overlap the edges or patch it with a scrap. It will fuse as its fat melts.

4. 4

   Butter and crumb

   Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C) with a rack in the upper third. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 43 g) butter. Brush every surface of the wrapped poussins generously, then roll and press them in the breadcrumbs until completely coated. Set them seam-side down on a wire rack placed over a rimmed sheet pan and let the coating settle for 10 minutes while the oven finishes heating.

5. 5

   Grill them gently

   Bake the crumbed poussins for 12 minutes, turn them carefully with two broad spatulas, and continue for 8 to 12 minutes. Set the broiler to low and give each side only enough direct heat to become evenly bronze, usually 30 to 90 seconds. The centre of the pork layer and the thickest part of each thigh must reach at least 165°F (74°C). If the crust colours before the centres are ready, cover it loosely with foil and return the birds to the regular oven for 3 to 5 minutes. Ça se rattrape. Fierce broiler heat is the enemy here.

6. 6

   Rest and serve

   Rest the poussins for 8 minutes so the forcemeat settles and the caul finishes basting the crumb. Meanwhile, warm the Périgueux sauce over gentle heat until it barely trembles, without boiling it. If it has tightened too far, loosen it with a spoonful of hot water. Transfer the poussins to a warm platter and serve the Périgueux sauce separately in a heated saucière, exactly as the dish requires. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose true poussins of roughly equal size. Large Cornish hens need longer cooking, which puts the crumb jacket in danger before the meat is ready.
• •Ask the butcher for fine, lightly seasoned pork forcemeat without sage, garlic, or assertive herbs. The source gives the seasoning to salt and cayenne, while the Périgueux sauce supplies the final aromatic depth.
• •Caul fat looks fragile and slightly alarming on the board, but it is the right tool. Keep it cold, patch any holes by overlapping scraps, and wrap without squeezing the forcemeat out at the edges.
• •The forcemeat layers must be thin and even. A heavy mound of pork may look generous, but it insulates the poussin and defeats the source’s twenty-to-twenty-five-minute cooking time.
• •Serve a mature Pinot Noir or a restrained red Bordeaux. The wine needs enough earthiness for the truffle-rich sauce without overwhelming the young birds.

Advance Preparation

• •Prepare the Périgueux sauce up to two days ahead and chill it promptly. Reheat it gently while the poussins rest, loosening it with a spoonful of hot water if necessary.
• •The caul may be rinsed, portioned, and kept covered in the cold for several hours. Portion the forcemeat and breadcrumbs at the same time, but keep the forcemeat thoroughly chilled.
• •Do not brown the poussins and refrigerate them for later cooking. Once browning begins, assemble and cook the birds in the same session.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 460g)