Soufflé de Jambon Milanaise

Soufflé de Jambon Milanaise (ham soufflé with a Milanaise garnish) teaches the discipline of moderate heat. A violent oven can force up an impressive crown while leaving the centre unset; once that weak middle meets the air, down it comes. This richer, layered soufflé must rise steadily enough for the eggs to set around the garnish.

The original shorthand assumed a saucier on staff, a stockpot never off the fire behind him, a finished garnish arriving from another station, and a salamander waiting to colour whatever required it. At home, prepare the referenced garnish as its own finished component, build the ham base in one saucepan, crisp the macaroni in one skillet, and let a moderate oven do the rest. The separate hands and salamander are brigade scaffolding and can go. The alternate layers, butter-fried macaroni, cheese, and gentle baking are the dish, so they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.

When it is right, the crown stands butter-gold and bronzed, the fried macaroni catches beneath the cheese, and each spoonful reveals pale ham soufflé crossed by the darker, glossy garnish. Set the oven accurately before you whisk the whites. That moderate, unwavering heat is the step that decides the dish.