
Chef Juliette
John Dory (St. Pierre)
John Dory has the delicacy of sole and the firmness of turbot. A light flouring, a quick butter sauté, and nut-brown beurre noisette show exactly why looks never mattered.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1148, Pièce de Bœuf à la Flamande, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Pièce de Bœuf à la Flamande gathers a tender larded braise with cabbage, glazed roots, bacon, garlic sausage, and potatoes, all bound by a clear, glossy gravy and the discipline of gentle heat.
Pièce de Bœuf à la Flamande (larded beef braised with its Flemish garnish) teaches one truth before all others: a braise must barely tremble. Rushed heat tightens the beef, breaks the cabbage apart, and spends the cooking liquor before it has done its work. Keep the heat gentle and the roast becomes yielding, the cabbage savory with pork, and the gravy dark enough to cling without flour.
The original formula assumed a larding needle, a braising pan fitted precisely to the joint, a stock never off the fire, a saucier to reduce the gravy, and spare hands turning carrots and turnips into perfect olives. At home, a narrow boning knife makes the channels a larding needle once did, a close-fitting cocotte replaces the braising pan, and good low-sodium consommé supports the reserved braising liquor. The towel-moulded cabbage balls become neat three-ounce heaps, and equal oblique pieces replace the brigade's carved vegetable olives. That shaping was service scaffolding, so it can go. The larding, the slow braise, the separately cooked garnish, and the clear reduced gravy are the dish, so they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Pommes de terre à l'anglaise (potatoes cooked plainly in water) provide the quiet counterpoint to all this richness. Begin the garnish during the final stretch of the beef braise, and guard the temperature of both pots. If either liquor begins boiling hard, lower the heat at once and restore a little hot consommé. Ça se rattrape.
Pièce de Bœuf à la Flamande belongs to the cooking vocabulary of French Flanders, particularly the Nord around Lille, where cabbage, cured pork, sausage, and storage roots form a natural winter larder. The garnish traveled from the northern household pot into the classical repertoire, where cooks formalized its elements and arranged them around a whole braised joint. Despite the name, this is not carbonnade flamande and contains no beer; à la Flamande here describes the cabbage-and-pork garnish rather than the braising liquid.
Quantity
1 prepared Ordinary Braisings (No. 247), made with 1 boneless beef rump or top round roast, 3 pounds (1.36 kg), with 2 cups (475 ml / 475 g) braising gravy and 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 40 g) stock-fat reserved
keep the roast covered and warm in a little of its liquor
Quantity
1 prepared Blanchings (No. 273), made with 1 small cabbage, about 2 pounds (900 g), and 6 ounces (170 g) pork
cabbage quartered and cored; cabbage and pork cooled and thoroughly drained
Quantity
1 medium, about 5 ounces (140 g)
quartered
Quantity
1 small, about 4 ounces (115 g)
peeled
Quantity
1
for studding the onion
Quantity
1
Quantity
8 ounces (225 g)
Quantity
7 cups (1.65 L / 1.65 kg)
divided and kept hot
Quantity
12 ounces (340 g)
cut into equal 1½-inch (4 cm) oblique ovals
Quantity
12 ounces (340 g)
cut into equal 1½-inch (4 cm) oblique ovals
Quantity
8, about 1½ pounds (680 g)
peeled
Quantity
2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g), divided, plus more for the potato water
Quantity
1 teaspoon (5 ml / 2 g), divided
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| larded braised beef and reserved liquorkeep the roast covered and warm in a little of its liquor | 1 prepared Ordinary Braisings (No. 247), made with 1 boneless beef rump or top round roast, 3 pounds (1.36 kg), with 2 cups (475 ml / 475 g) braising gravy and 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 40 g) stock-fat reserved |
| firm green cabbage and unsmoked slab bacon or salt porkcabbage quartered and cored; cabbage and pork cooled and thoroughly drained | 1 prepared Blanchings (No. 273), made with 1 small cabbage, about 2 pounds (900 g), and 6 ounces (170 g) pork |
| carrot for the cabbage braisequartered | 1 medium, about 5 ounces (140 g) |
| yellow onionpeeled | 1 small, about 4 ounces (115 g) |
| whole clovefor studding the onion | 1 |
| bouquet garni of parsley stems, thyme, and bay leaf | 1 |
| raw garlic pork sausage | 8 ounces (225 g) |
| low-sodium beef consommédivided and kept hot | 7 cups (1.65 L / 1.65 kg) |
| carrots for glazingcut into equal 1½-inch (4 cm) oblique ovals | 12 ounces (340 g) |
| turnips for glazingcut into equal 1½-inch (4 cm) oblique ovals | 12 ounces (340 g) |
| small waxy potatoespeeled | 8, about 1½ pounds (680 g) |
| fine salt | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g), divided, plus more for the potato water |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 2 g), divided |
Prepare the larded beef through Ordinary Braisings (No. 247), scaled to the three-pound roast and cooked in a vessel that holds it closely. That cross-referenced preparation remains whole here: its larding, marinade, browning, fond, aromatics, moistening, and basting supply the foundation of this dish. Guard its heat. The liquor should barely move; if it has boiled hard, pull the pot from the oven, lower the temperature, add up to ½ cup (120 ml / 120 g) hot consommé if the liquor is short, and continue gently. Ça se rattrape. The roast is ready when a narrow knife enters without resistance. Reserve 2 cups (475 ml / 475 g) of gravy and 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 40 g) of stock-fat, then keep the beef covered in a little liquor.
During the final hour and three-quarters of the beef braise, take the cabbage and pork prepared through Blanchings (No. 273). Separate the cabbage quarters leaf by leaf, cut away the thick ribs, and season with half the salt and pepper. Divide the leaves into eight loose portions of about 3 ounces (85 g) each. Press each portion briefly in the corner of a clean towel to form a compact heap; perfect spheres require another pair of hands and add no flavor.
Set the quartered carrot, the onion studded with the clove, and the bouquet garni in a snug covered casserole. Arrange the cabbage portions over them, then add the blanched pork in one piece and the raw garlic sausage. Pour in the reserved stock-fat and enough hot consommé to barely cover, about 3 to 4 cups (710 to 950 ml / 710 to 950 g). Bring just to the boil, cover, and cook beside the beef in a 325°F (165°C) oven for 1½ hours. The cabbage should become tender without collapsing. If the pan dries before then, add a little hot consommé; if it bubbles fiercely, lower the heat at once. At the end, the sausage must reach at least 160°F (71°C) at its center.
Put the garnish carrots and turnips into separate small saucepans so each can finish in its own time. Add enough consommé to cover each vegetable, season lightly with the remaining salt and pepper, and simmer gently until nearly tender. Uncover and reduce the consommé until it coats the vegetables in a clear glaze. If the liquid disappears before a knife enters easily, add another splash of consommé. If the vegetables soften first, lift them out, reduce their liquor alone, then return them and roll the pan until every piece gleams. The even cutting matters because it gives you even cooking; the brigade's perfect olive shapes do not.
Place the peeled potatoes in a saucepan, cover generously with cold water, and salt the water until it tastes properly seasoned. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until a narrow knife passes through the centers, about 18 to 25 minutes depending on size. Drain thoroughly, then return the potatoes to the warm dry pan for one minute so their surfaces lose excess water. Keep them whole and plain. That is à l'anglaise, and beside the pork-rich cabbage and concentrated gravy, plainness is exactly their work.
Spoon every visible trace of fat from the reserved braising gravy before reducing it; fat left behind will make the finished sauce oily rather than glossy. Simmer the gravy in a small saucepan until reduced by roughly half and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon in a clear film. Strain it through a fine sieve. If it tastes too strong or salty before reaching that consistency, add ½ cup (120 ml / 120 g) unsalted consommé and reduce more gently. If beads of fat return, stop and skim again. Never try to boil the grease into submission.
Discard the onion, carrot, clove, and bouquet garni from the cabbage casserole. Lift out the bacon and sausage, cut the bacon into small rectangles, and slice the sausage into thick roundels. Set the whole beef joint in the center of a warmed oval platter. Surround it with alternating heaps of cabbage, glazed carrots, glazed turnips, and potatoes à l'anglaise, then distribute the bacon and sausage around the ring. Brush the beef with one spoonful of gravy for sheen and serve the rest separately in a warm sauceboat. Generous, orderly, and unmistakably supper. À table!
1 serving (about 1000g)
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