
Chef Juliette
John Dory (St. Pierre)
John Dory has the delicacy of sole and the firmness of turbot. A light flouring, a quick butter sauté, and nut-brown beurre noisette show exactly why looks never mattered.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 1091, Tournedos Coligny, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Butter-seared tournedos meet bronzed sweet-potato galettes and a glossy paysanne of chayote in sauce Provençale. The lesson is timing: the lean fillet waits for nothing, so every garnish must be ready first.
Tournedos Coligny (butter-seared beef fillet on sweet-potato galettes with chow-chow in sauce Provençale) teaches service before searing. The one true thing is this: the lean fillet must be the last thing into the pan. Its crust and rosy centre cannot wait while you shape potatoes or coax a sauce into gloss, so every galette and every spoonful of paysanne must be ready first.
The original kitchen assumed a saucier on staff with sauce Provençale ready, a stockpot never off the fire behind the sauce station, a cook shaping sweet-potato rounds, and a salamander's fierce finishing heat. At home, use the cross-referenced preparation as the book intends, a ring cutter the width of the beef, a hot oven with a brief broiler finish, and one skillet. The separate stations are brigade scaffolding and can go; the equal measure of chow-chow and sauce, the egg-gilded galettes, the butter sear, and the crown arrangement are the dish and must stay. Here the crown is scaled to four without changing those proportions. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Chow-chow here is chayote, cut paysanne (thick triangular slices), parboiled, then stewed in butter before it meets an equal quantity of sauce Provençale. If the garnish loosens the sauce, lift out the chayote and reduce the sauce alone; ça se rattrape. Before the beef touches the pan, have the galettes browning, the paysanne gently held, and the serving platter warm. That choreography decides Tournedos Coligny.
Tournedos Coligny belongs to the named-garnish repertoire of Parisian grand kitchens, where a title specified the whole arrangement: a tournedos, a sweet-potato galette made in the manner of Duchesse Potatoes (No. 221), and a paysanne of chow-chow bound with sauce Provençale. Chow-chow here means chayote, not the pickled relish known by the same English name, and paysanne follows the book's triangular cut rather than a modern dice. Despite the southern sauce, Coligny is not a Provençal regional specialty; it is a composed grand-kitchen dish bringing several established preparations together at service.
Quantity
1½ cups (360 ml / about 375 g) Duchesse Potatoes (No. 221)
prepared with sweet potatoes
Quantity
1 large egg plus 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) water
beaten together for gilding
Quantity
2 medium, about 1 lb (450 g) total
peeled, cored, and cut into ¼-inch (6 mm) thick paysanne triangles
Quantity
1½ cups (360 ml / about 360 g)
equal in volume to the parboiled chow-chow
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
Quantity
4 medallions, 5 oz (140 g) each, 20 oz (560 g) total
cut about 1½ inches (4 cm) thick and tied around the circumference
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g)
Quantity
2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g)
divided
Quantity
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g)
divided
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Duchesse Potatoesprepared with sweet potatoes | 1½ cups (360 ml / about 375 g) Duchesse Potatoes (No. 221) |
| large egg and waterbeaten together for gilding | 1 large egg plus 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) water |
| chow-chows (chayotes)peeled, cored, and cut into ¼-inch (6 mm) thick paysanne triangles | 2 medium, about 1 lb (450 g) total |
| prepared sauce Provençaleequal in volume to the parboiled chow-chow | 1½ cups (360 ml / about 360 g) |
| unsalted butter | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| centre-cut beef fillet medallionscut about 1½ inches (4 cm) thick and tied around the circumference | 4 medallions, 5 oz (140 g) each, 20 oz (560 g) total |
| clarified butter | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) |
| fine sea saltdivided | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 12 g) |
| freshly ground black pepperdivided | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 1 g) |
Take the tournedos from the cold twenty minutes before cooking. Tie each around its circumference so it holds a neat round shape, then pat every surface dry. Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C) with a rack in the upper third, set a broiler-safe tray nearby, and warm a round serving platter. Have the prepared sauce Provençale in a small saucepan and every remaining ingredient measured before you begin; once the beef enters the skillet, nothing else gets your attention.
Line the tray with parchment. Divide the sweet-potato Duchesse Potatoes (No. 221) into four equal portions, then use a 3-inch (7.5 cm) ring cutter to shape four compact galettes matching the diameter of the tournedos, each about ⅝ inch (1.5 cm) thick. Brush the tops lightly with beaten egg to gild them, then score a shallow crosshatch with the point of a small knife. Keep the cuts on the surface; they prevent the gilding from blistering without splitting the galettes.
Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil and season it with about half the salt. Cut the peeled and cored chow-chow into thick paysanne triangles, keeping them even so they cook together. Parboil for 4 to 5 minutes, until the edges bend under a knife but the centres remain firm. Drain thoroughly and spread the pieces on a clean towel; trapped water would dilute the sauce. Measure the drained chow-chow by volume. You should have about 1½ cups (360 ml / 360 g).
Melt the unsalted butter in a wide saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the chow-chow with a small pinch each of salt and pepper, cover, and stew gently for 5 to 7 minutes, turning once or twice, until tender but still holding its triangular shape. Do not brown it. Add an equal volume of prepared sauce Provençale, about 1½ cups (360 ml / 360 g), and hold at the barest simmer for 5 minutes. If the chow-chow releases water and the sauce turns loose, lift out the pieces with a slotted spoon, reduce the sauce until it coats the spoon, then return them. Ça se rattrape. Cover and hold over the lowest heat.
Slide the galettes into the upper third of the oven and move directly to the beef. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until their sides are set and the gilded tops are deep gold. If they need more colour while the tournedos rest, pass them under the broiler for 30 to 60 seconds, watching without looking away. If the glaze blisters, prick the bubble, press it gently flat with a small spatula, and return the tray briefly to the heat.
Season the dry tournedos with the remaining salt and pepper. Heat a 12-inch (30 cm) heavy skillet over high heat, add the clarified butter, and when it glistens, lay in the beef with space between the pieces. Fry undisturbed for 2½ to 3 minutes, until the first side wears a dark Maillard crust, then turn and cook the second side for another 2 to 3 minutes. For medium-rare, remove them at 120 to 122°F (49 to 50°C); for medium, remove them near 128°F (53°C). If the pan loses its fierce sizzle and the meat begins shedding juice, lift out two tournedos, restore the heat, and finish in two batches. Ça se rattrape. Rest for 4 to 5 minutes, then remove the string.
Arrange the four bronzed galettes in a close ring on the warm platter. Set one rested tournedos squarely on each galette, then spoon the chow-chow paysanne and sauce Provençale generously over the beef, letting the glossy sauce pool around the potatoes without drowning their gilded edges. Serve at once. The crown waits for the guests, never for the cook. À table!
1 serving (about 420g)
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